Electric propulsion continues to gain momentum in the boating world, and VETUS is pushing that evolution forward with the introduction of its new E-Line 22 kW electric motor. The Netherlands-based manufacturer says the new model is its most powerful electric offering to date, designed to deliver familiar performance with the added benefits of zero emissions and near-silent operation.

Rated at 22 kW with a maximum torque of 130 Nm, the E-Line 22 kW is built to provide strong, responsive acceleration from a standstill and immediate deceleration when required. VETUS says the motor’s output makes it suitable for vessels up to 50 feet and displacements of up to 20 tons, opening electric propulsion to a broader range of cruising boats and small commercial craft.

The system incorporates advanced range-management technology to help operators make the most of available battery capacity. VETUS’ Sailing Assist firmware is designed to optimize efficiency during acceleration, cruising, and emergency stopping, aiming to deliver predictable and intuitive handling that mirrors the feel of a conventional diesel auxiliary.

One of the E-Line 22 kW’s key selling points is its modular, ready-to-install design. The motor is delivered as a complete system, requiring only the choice of control lever and cooling solution, either keel cooling or freshwater cooling, to match the vessel’s configuration. Its compact footprint allows it to be mounted on many existing engine foundations, making it a realistic option for refits as well as new builds.

VETUS has also designed the E-Line platform to be expandable over time. Owners can tailor their systems with different control levers, shunts, and display options, allowing upgrades as needs or cruising plans evolve.

The timing aligns with regulatory trends, particularly in Europe, where an increasing number of waterways and harbors are being designated as low- or zero-emissions zones. High-powered electric propulsion offers boaters access to these areas while delivering quiet operation that enhances the on-the-water experience.

While electric motors are a growing focus, VETUS continues to position itself as a full systems supplier. In addition to propulsion, the company provides shafts, propellers, seating, and other onboard equipment, supporting integrated installations from a single manufacturer. All VETUS products are backed by a three-year warranty.

The E-Line 22 kW electric motor is available now. More information is available at vetus.com

The post VETUS Expands Electric Propulsion With New E-Line Motor appeared first on Cruising World.

When a harbor master called Nick Heyes to tell him his boat was sinking, the news came with a troubling twist. A persistent leak in the shaft seal had slowly filled the bilge with contaminated water. The pump eventually overloaded and failed, leaving the boat at risk and sending polluted discharge overboard without anyone knowing.

“That got me thinking,” said Heyes, managing director of Digital Yacht. “Our company creates connected solutions for boaters, and yet my own boat nearly sank and was discharging polluted bilge water simply because I didn’t know the bilge pump had failed. There had to be a solution.”

That incident kicked off the development of Bilge iQ, a new intelligent bilge monitoring and environmental protection system that has since earned major industry awards.

Bilge iQ connects to any bilge pump through NMEA 2000 and displays pump status on a vessel’s multifunction display. Owners can control the pump from the MFD or use standard NMEA switching commands. A built-in wireless interface allows monitoring from a phone or tablet, giving boaters access to pump activity, current draw, cycle logs, and alarms for dry-run events, long run times, or pump failures. Bilge iQ also integrates with Victron Cerbo systems to enable remote oversight through the free VRM cloud platform.

“We developed a solution that allows boat owners to monitor and control the bilge pump,” Heyes said. “A sinking boat obviously poses major environmental risks, but on a day to day basis unmonitored bilge discharge is a problem.”

To address that broader concern, Digital Yacht partnered with Wave International, maker of Lloyd’s Register-approved Wavestream bilge filters. Wavestream units remove hydrocarbons and other contaminants down to 5 ppm, a level often required in marine protection zones and inland waterways.

“Digital Yacht contacted us about integrating the Wavestream filter into the Bilge iQ to create a comprehensive solution which would not only protect owners’ boats but also protect the environment,” said Paul Gullett, managing director of Wave International. “It ensures only clean water is pumped overboard.”

The combined system launched in September and was named Best New Product by the NMEA. In November, Bilge iQ earned the DAME Design Award for Environmental Design as well as a special mention for On Board Safety.

For boatowners, the solution offers something long overdue: a smarter way to keep water out of the boat and pollution out of the sea.

The post An Innovation in Bilge Monitoring: What Boaters Need to Know appeared first on Cruising World.

RiteAire Marine introduced its newest whole-vessel dehumidification system at the Fort Lauderdale International Boat Show, giving owners of 40 to 50 foot cruising boats a purpose-built solution for year-round interior humidity control.

The new RAM 30 joins the company’s patented Whole Vessel Dehumidification System and extends RiteAire’s offerings to boats from 40 feet all the way to yachts over 125 feet. Designed specifically for smaller spaces, the RAM 30 delivers nearly five gallons of water removal per day when ducted into the full system.

The unit’s compact footprint is one of its standout features. At 14 inches wide, 30 inches high and only 5.75 inches deep, it can be tucked out of sight in tight mechanical spaces where larger RAM 75 and RAM 100 models would not fit.

“With the enormous popularity of cruising boats from 40 to 50 feet, we are proud to offer our patented whole-vessel solution for reducing humidity in this rapidly growing segment,” said RiteAire Marine Co-Owner Ted Reese.

The RAM 30 is designed to keep interiors dry, odor-free and comfortable in hot, humid climates where mold and moisture can take a toll on equipment, soft goods and onboard air quality. For cruising owners who store boats in the water year-round or make long seasonal passages, humidity control has become an increasingly important onboard system.

RiteAire Marine also announced that Ice Marine of North Palm Beach has joined its dealer and installer network. While the dealer appointment is part of the brand’s wider service growth, the company says the RAM 30 launch marks a major step toward making whole-vessel dehumidification more accessible to midsize-boat owners.

Since 2013 RiteAire Marine has installed its patented system on hundreds of yachts. The introduction of the RAM 30 further broadens the application of whole-vessel humidity management across a wider range of cruising boats.

The post RiteAire Marine Unveils New Dehumidifier for Midsize Boats appeared first on Cruising World.

As every cruiser knows, your engine might not be the heart of your boat, but it’s definitely the lifeline. That’s especially true when the wind dies or you need to punch through a tricky inlet.

With fall haul-out season approaching, it’s a good time to revisit the basics of diesel engine care: clean fuel, proper lubrication and smart layup strategies that help prevent problems offshore or dockside.  

To dig into some of the most common questions sailors have about fuel and oil systems, Cruising World spoke with Bill McDonald, a longtime pro angler and Lucas Oil ambassador whose marine experience extends to fishing and cruising vessels. From stabilizing fuel to catching wear issues early, here’s what he recommends for keeping your engine healthy, whether the boat is on passage or on the hard.

CW: Contaminants in diesel fuel and engine oil are a constant concern aboard cruising boats. What practical steps can sailors take to minimize contamination, and what role can additives play?

BM: Fuel contamination is one of the most common culprits behind engine problems offshore. Regular maintenance—changing fuel filters, draining water separators and keeping tanks full to minimize condensation—is your first line of defense. Additives designed for marine fuel systems can help disperse water, clean injectors and reduce buildup over time. I’ve used Lucas Marine Fuel Treatment for years in both gas and diesel engines. It’s made a noticeable difference in how clean my injectors stay. In the crankcase, oil stabilizers can provide an extra layer of protection by improving lubricity and reducing wear, which is especially useful when cruising far from shore-based repair options.

CW: Marine engines often sit idle for long periods. How can sailors preserve fuel and oil health during layups or long crossings?

BM: Fuel starts degrading the moment it’s stored. Using a stabilizer when you fill your tanks—ideally just before a long idle period—can help prevent oxidation and gumming. Once it’s added, run the engine briefly so the treated fuel circulates fully through the system. The same idea applies to oil stabilizers: Adding them before a layup helps coat internal components and protect against corrosion and dry starts when it’s time to fire up again.

CW: For sailors using ultra-low-sulfur diesel, what’s the risk of reduced lubricity, and how can that be addressed?

BM: ULSD lacks the lubricating properties of older diesel fuels, a characteristic that can lead to premature wear in injectors and pumps. Many cruisers now use upper-cylinder lubricants or fuel conditioners that restore some of that lost protection. They often include detergents too, which can be helpful for keeping older systems clean.

CW: Why is it important to use marine-specific lubricants instead of automotive products?

BM: Marine engines operate under tougher conditions: long hours at high rpm, and exposure to moisture and salt. Marine-grade oils are formulated to resist corrosion and foaming, and to maintain their properties under heavy load. Using automotive oil may not provide the protection your engine needs in these conditions. 

CW: When should sailors consider using oil additives, and what are the signs that it might help?

BM: Additives shouldn’t be used to mask a real issue, but they can help reduce wear, lower operating temperatures and extend engine life, especially in older engines. If your engine feels sluggish, runs rough or is harder to start than usual, it may be worth looking into oil treatment as part of a broader diagnostic and maintenance approach. 

CW: What’s your advice for diagnosing fuel system issues at sea, and how can sailors prepare?

BM: If your engine starts stumbling or loses power, it’s often a fuel problem: clogged filters, moisture or dirty fuel. Prevention is key. Treat fuel consistently, carry spare filters, and know how to change them underway. Having the right tools and basic familiarity with your fuel system goes a long way. 

CW: Some sailors still encounter ethanol-blended gasoline when fueling dinghy outboards or generators. What’s the risk, and how can it be managed? 

BM: Ethanol absorbs water and can lead to corrosion, phase separation, and damage to seals and hoses in small engines. If you can’t avoid ethanol-blended gas, then use a conditioner designed to counteract those effects. It’s a simple step that can prevent a lot of headaches, especially when fueling at unfamiliar docks.

CW: Do you have any advice for boats operating in tropical or high-humidity environments where corrosion is accelerated?

BM: Salt air and humidity are relentless. Rinse thoroughly with fresh water after outings, check electrical terminals for corrosion, and use anti-corrosion sprays where needed. Good airflow in the engine room or lazarette can also help reduce trapped moisture. Regular inspection is the best prevention.

CW: With more cruisers doing their own oil analysis, what should they be looking for? And can additives affect the results?

BM: Watch for signs like elevated wear metals, thinning viscosity or contamination. Additives can help reduce wear particles and maintain viscosity, especially under load. When I started adding Lucas Oil Stabilizer to my maintenance routine, I saw a drop in wear metals on my reports. But if analysis shows recurring problems, that’s your cue to adjust service intervals or investigate further.

CW: How often should fuel and oil systems be treated during extended cruising, and how does usage affect your maintenance schedule?

BM: Your maintenance rhythm should match your usage. Liveaboards and long-range cruisers may need to treat fuel and change oil every few hundred hours; seasonal sailors might only do this once or twice a year. What matters most is consistency and prepping properly before layup. If you’re using additives, follow the recommended ratios and make sure they’re mixed thoroughly and circulated through the system.

Our final takeaway? Marine engine health is about more than just oil changes. A full-system approach includes clean fuel, good airflow, and protection from corrosion and wear. Additives can help extend engine life, but only when they’re used alongside routine maintenance and thoughtful operation. 

It’s work, yes. But when the wind dies, you’ll be glad you put in the time.

The post Extend Your Marine Engine Life With These Tips appeared first on Cruising World.

Our Stevens 47, Totem, is anchored with 370 feet of chain in 90 feet of water off Majuro Atoll. Around us lie the rusting hulks of cargo ships. We are also amid the coral reefs, aquaculture pens, and a mooring area with a half-dozen cruising boats. Squalls are frequent here, just 7 degrees north of the equator, in the capital of the Marshall Islands. 

Between downpours, my husband, Jamie, and I dinghy in to collect a package at the post office. It’s filled with pure convenience. Two weeks earlier, our portable gas generator wouldn’t start. This isn’t a problem in mostly sunny places, where Totem’s 1,215 watts of solar typically exceed our power needs, but here in the Intertropical Convergence Zone, thick cloud cover blots out the sun for days at a time. 

Without solar power, the suitcase-size generator is essential for charging our batteries. Jamie tried everything to diagnose and fix the issue: carburetor, fuel pump, spark plug, coil, oil sensor. No luck.

There was no suitable replacement available locally, but a shipping agent in Honolulu, for a nominal fee, helped us purchase and deliver a new Honda EU2200i. We might have squeaked by without it, but with more remote islands ahead and a desire to avoid running engine hours just to charge batteries, this felt like a worthy investment. 

Since then, we’ve found the generator’s portability to be vitally useful. At a remote atoll, we once hauled it ashore to power our tools for repairing a rudder on a boat that had struck a coral reef.

Back aboard Totem, Jamie marinized this new generator. A single hour spent adding protective coatings will make future maintenance far easier. Jamie started by removing the exposed fasteners one at a time to apply Tef-Gel to the threads. Once reinstalled, the exposed heads got a coat of CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor or Boeshield T-9.

Next, Jamie marinized the rubber feet that help dampen vibration and sound. Each foot is held on with a bolt—one that tends to rust, stain the deck, and eventually fail. In the past, Jamie tried protective coatings, but none lasted. This time, he filled the inside of the rubber feet with silicone to create a water barrier. If you try this, keep the generator upright if there’s any oil or gas inside.

For the exhaust muffler, Jamie removed the plastic cover and the muffler itself, then sprayed the muffler with high-heat paint for protection. Covering the generator when not in use also helps keep internal components protected from rain and spray.

Once this was all done, and after the engine oil and gas were added, there was one final step before putting the generator into service: installing an hour meter. Ours is activated by engine vibration, giving us a quick visual cue for tracking run time and performing scheduled maintenance. No guesswork. No forgotten log entries. Just change the oil, clean the air filter, and stay on top of maintenance based on real hours run.

With electrical convenience restored, we’re able to top up the batteries and water tanks once again. We’d be catching up on laundry too—but the generator doesn’t keep squalls away, and we’ll need a little more sun to dry our clothes.

The post Why A Marinized Generator is a Must for Cruisers appeared first on Cruising World.

Whether you’re out for a weekend cruise or logging ocean miles on an extended voyage, a reliable and hygienic freshwater system is essential to life afloat. Inconsistent pressure and biofilm buildup are among every boater’s challenges in managing onboard plumbing.

We spoke with the marine systems experts at Vetus to get practical insights into the common problems cruisers encounter, and what to consider when upgrading or maintaining fresh- and wastewater systems.

CW: What are the most common issues sailors face with freshwater systems?

V: Out on the water, two problems tend to pop up again and again: bacterial contamination in tanks and inconsistent water pressure. I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve opened a tank on a boat that had been sitting in the tropics for a while and found that telltale green tinge or a whiff of funk. When tanks sit full for long periods, especially in warm climates, bacteria and algae can take hold. The trouble gets worse when the tanks have no easy way in for cleaning or inspection. If you can, choose tanks with large inspection ports or removable lids; it makes regular maintenance and flushes a quick Saturday morning job instead of a full-on project.  

Water pressure woes, such as pulsing or surging at the tap, are another favorite gremlin. More often than not, an undersized or aging pump is to blame, or a system that is missing an accumulator tank altogether. A properly sized pressurized water system with built-in pressure regulation does more than make the flow steady. It makes the everyday stuff, from dishwashing to taking a shower to rinsing salty gear, feel civilized instead of frustrating.

CW: How have modern freshwater systems evolved to meet the needs of long-distance cruisers?

V: These days, durability and ease of maintenance sit at the heart of good freshwater system design. When you are hundreds of miles from the nearest marina, you cannot count on finding a spare pump or the right fitting. Every part of the system, from tanks and hoses to fittings and pumps, has to be able to handle constant use in a salty, often remote environment.  

The good news is that materials and layouts have come a long way. Tanks are built from tougher, more stable materials, pumps are more reliable, and smarter system designs make it easier for owners to handle upkeep themselves. Features such as inspection ports let you install extra gear like senders or sensors without major surgery. Corrosion-resistant hardware and simplified plumbing runs also mean you spend less time chasing leaks and more time focusing on the passage ahead.

CW: What’s new when it comes to conserving water on passage, especially with marine toilets?

V: Modern marine toilets are designed to use less water per flush without giving up hygiene or comfort. Better bowl shapes, smooth cleanable surfaces, and improved flushing mechanisms all work together to reduce overall water use.  

Wastewater management is another part of the conservation picture. Holding tanks and transfer systems are now built from lighter, stronger materials that resist corrosion and are easier to keep clean. These designs also help limit environmental impact. For the long-distance cruiser, the goal is to enjoy the same comfort and convenience you would have in a marina, while taking a responsible approach to both water use and waste handling at sea.

CW: What should boat owners look for when upgrading a water pressure pump?

V: Put quiet operation, energy efficiency, and the ability to run for long stretches at the top of your list. The latest pumps often come with helpful features such as thermal protection, dry-run capability, and integrated check valves. These reduce common failure points and can make installation simpler.  

If your system doesn’t already have one, add an accumulator tank during the upgrade. This small piece of gear smooths out pulsing at the tap and cuts down on pump cycling. The result is a quieter system that uses less battery power and keeps things running smoothly on long passages.

CW: What tank materials and designs are best for onboard use, and how can sailors ensure good hygiene over time?

V: For freshwater, look for tanks built from food-grade, non-corrosive materials such as linear polyethylene. Seamless construction lowers the risk of leaks, and internal baffles help keep water from sloshing around while you are under sail. For wastewater, similar materials provide the strength you need along with good odor resistance.  

Easy access for inspection and cleaning is essential. Larger ports and modular inspection systems make it simple to check the inside of a tank and flush it when needed. In tight spaces, a flexible tank can be a smart option. These tanks conform to the shape of the hull and can fit into compartments where a rigid tank will not go.  CW: Wastewater systems are one of those chores most boat owners would rather not think about, at least until something smells or clogs. What makes for a setup you can rely on without the drama?

V: It starts with odor control, corrosion resistance, and maintenance you can actually keep up with. Thick-walled synthetic tanks with built-in odor barriers do a great job of keeping smells where they belong. Good ventilation is also important, and an inline carbon filter will stop most odors before they even reach the cabin.  

A few smart design choices help too. Narrower hoses, around 19 mm, can improve flow and cut down on the chance of blockages. Inspection ports make it easier to keep tabs on what is going on inside and to give the system a proper cleaning. Even small upgrades like adding a lid opener for sealed tanks or using a biodegradable treatment such as TankFresh can turn a headache into a system you hardly have to think about, which is the real goal when it comes to wastewater at sea.

CW: Odor control is one of those must-get-right parts of any waste system. How do you keep smells from taking over, and what are some best practices sailors should follow?

V: Ventilation is key. You want large-diameter hose runs that slope downward so waste doesn’t hang around and cause trouble. Good airflow through the tank is essential, and “no smell” filters can trap odors before they even escape the vent line.  

Electric toilets with macerators also help a lot. They break down waste and push it through the system more efficiently, which means less buildup and fewer smells. For best results, check regularly for blockages, make sure hose connections are tight, and rinse tanks often with odor-neutralizing treatments. Keeping on top of these simple steps makes life aboard much more pleasant.

CW: Are there digital monitoring systems that help sailors keep tabs on tank levels and system performance?

V: Absolutely. Noncontact ultrasonic level sensors have really changed the game. They give accurate readings for freshwater, fuel, and black- and gray-water tanks without the wear and tear you get from mechanical senders. You can hook these sensors up to a central display, so you get real-time updates on multiple tanks all at once.  

This kind of setup is a huge help on long passages where managing fresh water and holding tank capacity is critical. Smart monitoring means fewer surprises and lets crews stay ahead of any issues before they become problems.

CW: How do these systems integrate with the rest of the boat, especially in tight spaces or custom installations?

V: Many tanks, pumps, and plumbing parts are designed to be modular and compact so they can slip into tight spots without choking off flow or hurting reliability.  

Flexible hoses and ready-to-go installation kits really come in handy on older boats or ones with unusual hull shapes. The last thing you want is a system that forces you into a tangle of rerouted lines every time you try to upgrade. The goal is smooth performance with as little fuss as possible, so you spend less time under the boat and more time enjoying the water.

CW: How can sailors extend the life of their plumbing systems, whether for seasonal or bluewater cruising?

V: It really comes down to regular care. Think of it like giving your boat a little daily attention so it doesn’t throw a fit when you need it most. Clean those freshwater tanks often—nothing worse than algae or bacteria throwing a wrench in your water quality. Swap out filters like clockwork to keep everything tasting fresh and running smooth.  

For waste tanks, treatments like TankFresh are a game changer. They help break down waste naturally and keep the stink at bay, which makes life aboard a lot more pleasant for everyone. After each use, flush your hoses with clean water to avoid nasty blockages and that stagnant water funk nobody wants.  

And don’t forget to eyeball your hoses and fittings regularly for leaks or wear. Ventilation systems need some love too—check for blockages and swap out odor filters before they lose their punch. Stick with these simple habits, and your systems will thank you by staying reliable whether you’re crossing oceans or just keeping the boat ready between trips.

Top Tips for a Trouble-Free Water System

Install inspection ports. Add large, accessible ports to fresh and wastewater tanks for easy cleaning and checks.

Use vent filters. A carbon-based “no smell” filter on your tank vent line can eliminate most odors before they enter the cabin.

Add an accumulator tank. This helps smooth out pulsing pressure and reduces pump cycling. It’s especially useful for long-term cruisers.

Choose flexible hoses. Marine-grade hoses with built-in odor barriers make tight routing easier, and they last longer.

Monitor with ultrasonic sensors. Non-contact level monitors prevent overflows, alert you to shortages, and reduce maintenance surprises.

The post Avoid Common Boating Plumbing Pitfalls With These Tips appeared first on Cruising World.

The internet is replete with guidance—some of it accurate—on the subject of auxiliary diesel engine maintenance and upkeep. There is, however, far less discussion on the subject of marine gears, otherwise known as transmissions.

Transmissions ­commonly run into problems too. For instance, the control cables. They’re the traditional connection between the shift lever in the cockpit and the gear down in the engine compartment. This system is a telegraph of sorts. Pushing it forward or aft mimics the same movement on the gear’s own shift lever.

The cable, which is made up of a steel core and a steel wire jacket covered in plastic, is fairly reliable unless it gets wet. Then it can rust and seize. The jacket can also melt if it comes into contact with a dry exhaust component. More likely failures involve various ways that the cable jacket may be immobilized and how the core is attached at each end.  

The jacket clamp is critical. If it’s a gate style, then it should be safety-wired into place. If it’s a saddle, then it should be secured with self-locking or double nuts. If it loosens and the jacket is allowed to move, then shift control will be lost (and possibly stuck in gear).

The connection of the core to the shift lever must rely on proprietary parts from the cable manufacturer, including proper jaws, clevis and split pins. Don’t use common nuts and bolts. Check the interfacing parts for wear, a task that requires disassembly. Ensure that cable-end locknuts are tight. Make certain the cable is adjusted properly so that when it is in gear, the lever is fully engaged. Also be sure you know how to engage the lever manually if necessary.

For the coolers, be aware that there are two types of marine gears: mechanical and hydraulic. Up to about 100 hp, most engines are mated to a mechanical gear. Larger engines often utilize hydraulic gears. 

Many, but not all, of the mechanical gears use an oil cooler that is bolted to the gear housing. It removes heat through the case wall without ever coming into contact with the oil.  

Hydraulic transmissions utilize a traditional heat exchanger with oil on one side and seawater on the other side. 

Coolers used on both types of gears are prone to corrosion and leaking. Hydraulic gear coolers, because the pressure is much higher, will leak oil into cooling water initially. Coolers used on hydraulic gears can become clogged because they rely on small-diameter tube bundles.

Damper plates, also called torsional couplings, connect the engine’s flywheel, or output, to the gear’s input shaft. This system uses springs or a flexible, rubberlike insert to absorb shock when shifting. If the springs break, or if the flexible material cracks or disintegrates, you might lose all propulsion, or it simply might get very noisy. (Some plates are fail-safe; they will maintain contact but lose all damping ability.)  

If you notice a change in noise when shifting, or if you notice rubber or metal fragments under the after end of the engine, it might be an indication of a failing damper plate. Some bell housings (the cover that surrounds the damper plate) have ports that will allow for limited inspection without disassembly.

Finally, check your marine gear’s oil. This lubricant isn’t subject to the same sort of combustion contamination and heat degradation as engine crankcase oil, but it does wear out or shear, losing viscosity. It can also become contaminated with metal or moisture.  

Hydraulic transmissions usually call for replacement every 500 to 1,000 hours, which is an eternity for most sailing vessels. It’s either the number of hours or every six to 12 months, whichever comes first.  

Make certain you use the correct lubricant for your gear. Some systems require straight weight (not multiweight) ­motor oil, while others use auto­matic-transmission fluid. Also check the level correctly. Most ­hydraulic gears call for checking the level while running warm at idle and in neutral. By contrast, the mechanical gear oil level is checked at rest. Follow your manufacturer’s instructions.

Because the sump capacity is usually comparatively small, the cost of changing this oil annually is also small and offers a good return on investment. Ideally, have the oil analyzed as well. If your gear is hydraulic, it may have a filter (internal or external), and it probably has a suction screen. Remember to change or clean these too.  

Steve D’Antonio offers services for boat owners and buyers through Steve D’Antonio Marine Consulting.

The post Marine Transmission Maintenance: Prevent Failures Before They Happen appeared first on Cruising World.

While electric propulsion remains a talking point across the marine industry, Joool has been quietly proving the technology for more than two decades—and now it’s bringing that experience to cruising sailboats.

A division of Alternatives Energies (AE), Joool is showcasing its electric and hybrid propulsion systems at the Cannes Yachting Festival. AE’s track record includes launching the first lithium-ion passenger vessel in 2005 and the first certified hydrogen-powered ferry in 2015. Its technology now powers more than 150 hybrid and electric vessels worldwide, carrying over 20 million passengers.

Through Joool, that expertise is being tailored to the recreational market. More than 60 sailing yachts already use Joool systems, including 18 in charter fleets with builders such as Fountaine Pajot, Leopard and Dufour. The systems are designed to give owners and charter operators quiet operation, dependable power management and low-maintenance propulsion.

“Owners and charter operators want more than just green credentials,” said Antoine Lecestre, CEO of Joool. “They want confidence, luxury, independence, and a unique client experience. With Joool, they can deliver it all.”

How the System Works

At the heart of each installation is the OneBox, a compact, intelligent energy hub managing everything from electric propulsion pods to solar, wind, hydrogeneration, shore power and gensets. With more than 200,000 recorded usage hours, Joool’s energy management software has been refined to deliver seamless performance and efficient power use at sea.

Key features include:

• Electric POD propulsion with hydrogeneration capability
• Safe, recyclable LFP batteries with certified fire protection
• Integrated Energy Propulsion Management System with remote monitoring and diagnostics
• Turnkey installation optimized for shipyards
• Seven-year warranty supported by a global service network

This modular, preconfigured approach gives boatbuilders a single-source solution and shortens installation timelines. For sailors, the benefits include silent anchoring, efficient passages and a higher level of onboard independence.

With accelerating demand for clean propulsion options in the cruising market, Joool’s appearance at Cannes signals a maturing technology ready for mainstream adoption.

The post Joool Brings Electric Propulsion to Cruising Sailboats appeared first on Cruising World.

AC and DC electrical systems are an integral part of any cruising vessel. While you might be able to sail without a functioning electrical system, it’s difficult to do much else, including navigate, be seen at night, retrieve an anchor, and communicate.

So it should be a priority to make sure your electrical systems are in good working order. Spring is a good time to check if you want to have fewer problems once the summer boating season is in full swing.

DC Electrical

Begin with house and start batteries, and specifically with overcurrent protection, aka fuses and circuit breakers.  

With one exception, every wire connected to a battery’s positive terminal must have a fuse or circuit breaker within 7 inches of wire length, or within as much as 72 inches if the wire is supplementally sheathed or in a conduit. 

The one exception is the positive cable that provides power to the starter. Because it might not be overcurrent-protected, it is imperative that this wire be protected from damage—and especially from short circuits caused by chafe. Other than this wire’s connection to the starter, it must not touch the engine in any way whatsoever.

Next, check your system’s battery security. While ABYC standards allow for up to 1 inch of movement for an installed battery, my own rule calls for no movement at all. I believe that batteries, especially on bluewater vessels, should be completely immobilized. 

The best way to achieve this is with a clamp arrangement, and after that, a ratcheting strap with a stainless-steel buckle. Also check battery terminals, and adapter lugs if you have them, to make sure they are tight. If you can rotate any of these, they are too loose.

Then, turn off all the AC and DC power. If you have an inverter, you must turn off its DC-supply switch or remove its main DC fuse. Confirm that power is not present using a multimeter. Also unplug the shore-power cord from the dock pedestal.

Then, and only then, open the main electrical panel and check the security of every screw terminal (including AC). Tug on wires to make sure all crimps are tight.  

I conducted an inspection aboard a vessel a few days ago, and a quarter of the screw terminals and crimps were loose. These kinds of loose crimps and terminals lead to high resistance, and high resistance leads to heat production, which in turn can lead to a fire.

AC Power

With AC power, the primary issue is electrocution, followed by fire. All outlets located in the galley, head and machinery spaces, and on the weather deck, must be GFCI protected.  

In addition to that self-test feature, these and all outlets should be checked with an external test tool, one that includes a GFCI test button. These tools are available inexpensively at hardware and home-improvement stores.  

It is possible for one GFCI outlet to protect several conventional outlets that are located downstream. If you suspect that this is the case, be sure to test all of them. In addition to testing the GFCI function, the tool will also indicate reverse polarity and an open ground, both of which are potentially dangerous, among other faults.  

If you have a generator or an inverter, the same testing should be carried out on each one while operating on those power sources.

For both AC and DC wiring, one of the most common errors involves the order of ring terminals. The largest must be installed first, with successively smaller ones being stacked on top, to an overall limit of four.

With the shore power off and unplugged from the dock, inspect the inlet and both ends of the cord for signs of overheating, corrosion and ­discoloration. Ensure that the locking ring is present and usable on legacy-style ­twist-lock boatside cord ends.

If you are uncomfortable carrying out any of these tasks yourself, call an ABYC-certified marine electrician, which you can find in your area by visiting abycinc.org.

Steve D’Antonio offers services for boat owners and buyers through Steve D’Antonio Marine Consulting . 

The post Power Check: Prevent Onboard Electrical Failures Before They Strike appeared first on Cruising World.

I could see that the Down East 45 ketch I had come to look at had been very neglected, and a surveyor confirmed it.

Among the obvious shortcomings—though by no means the only one—was the wiring, which needed completely overhauling. That’s quite a project to consider on a 45-foot sailboat that was already 35 years old. Along with other issues, the surveyor found, I decided to withdraw from the provisional offer I had made. When the broker asked me why, I sent him a list of faults nearly as long as my arm. A month later, presumably after all his other potential buyers had done the same, he called me and more or less said if I was still interested, I could name my price—which I did—and it was accepted.

I should mention here that I’m not new to boats and have been working on them for more than 50 years (I started young). I knew exactly what I was getting into with this boat, which we later renamed Britannia. My situation allowed me to consider such a project because: (a) The price was well below my original budget, leaving plenty to undertake the job; (b) I had good knowledge and skill in boat repairs and was confident I could turn Britannia into a solid ocean-cruising boat; (c) I enjoy working on boats, especially ones with quality teak like the old Downeaster boats; (d) I was newly retired, had the time, and wasn’t in a hurry; (e) And not least, my wife agreed with the plan.

Rewiring wasn’t my first priority—it was installing air conditioning, since we lived in Florida—but eventually, rewiring moved to the top of my list. I discovered nearly all the original wires were brittle, with cracked insulation and exposed bare wire in places. Some wires were welded together from overheating, which explained many items not working. I was also amazed at how many wires led to nothing, simply cut off from equipment that was no longer there. Rewiring an old boat with this hodgepodge of wires can quickly turn into a nightmare if you get them mixed up. At moments like this, my wife always reminds me of the timeless boater’s adage: “If it ain’t broke, it will be when I fix it.” I probably should have that tattooed on my arm to remind me before starting projects like this.

While doing the wiring work, I needed to keep the boat’s electrics running—particularly the air conditioning, which was a priority in central Florida. So, I had to be careful not to cut through or dislodge operational wires. Electrical work on old boats can be taxing because there may be no accurate wiring diagrams, and equipment might have been added without updates to schematics.

The master distribution panel, containing both AC 120-volt and 12-volt circuit breakers, was mounted at floor level, making it easy to trip a breaker when shuffling into the chart table seat. I decided to move it to a more accessible location, but to access the wires beneath the floor, I had to dismantle the chart table (that’s another story). 

With the floor removed, I found a mess of loose wires leading to and from the panel. It was a spaghetti maze of wires, buzz bars, connectors, and relays. Some wires had been cut off and just left dangling. Wires led to devices all over the boat and to the engine instruments. I supported the panel from a ceiling beam so that I could turn it to work on the front and back.

There are different ways to rewire an old boat. You can buy individual lengths of wire, or you can convert to an NMEA (National Marine Electronics Association) networking system that interconnects nearly everything and can be read on a multifunction display screen, including engine readings. You can even convert to Wi-Fi wireless and have minimal wires at all, but this is expensive with relays and signal senders fitted to every device. These options were out of my budget, so I opted to use regular wire. Instead of buying individual lengths, I bought a 20-foot length of multi-conductor cable containing 20 wires of 14 AWG (American wire gauge). 

These wires are cheaper and color-coded. However, a problem with multi-conductor wire is it can overheat even with just 12 volts. I stripped the outer rubber casing, unwound the wires as needed, and used individual wires, which are less prone to overheating and easier to pull through holes and curves.

This massive project requires surprisingly few tools, the most important being a good-quality electrical multimeter that can measure voltage, amperage, continuity, and resistance. I bought one specifically for this job: an Ames Instruments digital clamp meter, type 1000A AC/DC.

Another item I made from spare wire was a long length of twin flexible wire with crocodile clips on both ends, used to extend the multimeter probe cables to test for continuity in wires from the circuit board to the instrument it’s (supposed) to be connected to. I made a test wire using crocodile clips on each end.

I first disconnected the AC and DC power to the panel, and for lighting and power, I used an extension cord directly from the marina dock. As I replaced each wire, I switched the power back on to check if the equipment still worked. It was a slow, tedious, and sometimes strenuous process—reaching behind panels, pulling out old wires, and rerouting new ones. I also used a lot of crimp connectors.

Next, I made a teak framework under the deck curve and used an old louvered door to access the wires leading to the panel. I added a piece of teak plywood below the panel to mount the generator and water tank gauges, which had been installed all over the place.

The original engine instrument cluster was mounted low in the cockpit, where it was difficult to read when sitting at the wheel and could easily short out if the cockpit flooded with just 6 inches of water. I moved the cluster halfway up the steering pedestal, in front of the wheel, where it was easier to see. I then made a solid teak instrument pod to hold a Raymarine multi-function display, along with autopilot and wind instruments—new installations. I also mounted deck switches (nav lights, spreaders, windlass, and engine starter/stop buttons) on the pod. 

I drilled a hole in the cockpit sole and routed all the wires down the side of the pedestal using split wire casing. Split-wire plastic casing is a neat way to group multiple wires together while keeping each wire separate inside the casing. It allows you to withdraw wires as needed to connect them to individual devices. New wires can also be added to keep the installation tidy. The casings are typically suspended from cable ties, and feeding a new wire through can be tricky. But if you fit a thin draw-cord (whipping twine works well) when the casing is first installed, it’s easy to pull new wires through—and don’t forget to pull through another draw-cord for the next wire. These casings come in many sizes and colors, making the installation both functional and attractive.

While replacing the wires for overhead lights in the cabins, I ran branch wires to new 12-volt and 120-volt LCD lights. I also installed double-pole switches that allowed both types of lights to be controlled from a wall switch and wired them in parallel so the individual switch on the light would also work.

The thick, heavy 120-volt cables from the two ship-to-shore power plugs were thankfully long enough to reach the repositioned panel and only needed sorting from the tangle in which they had been installed. It took four weeks to completely rewire the panel and transfer it to the framework I had built next to where the new chart table would fit. Eventually, all new wires were connected—though even years later, I still find one I missed that doesn’t go anywhere.

A dedicated engine start battery that had sat under the original chart table seat needed relocating. I built a shelf under the new floor and fastened a battery box to it. Now, it’s easily accessed through a hatch in the new floor.

I was amazed that everything continued to work as before, and for once, I proved the old adage wrong. I didn’t need the tattoo—just the reminder to work carefully and methodically.

The post Rewiring an Old Boat from the Ground Up appeared first on Cruising World.