When a harbor master called Nick Heyes to tell him his boat was sinking, the news came with a troubling twist. A persistent leak in the shaft seal had slowly filled the bilge with contaminated water. The pump eventually overloaded and failed, leaving the boat at risk and sending polluted discharge overboard without anyone knowing.

“That got me thinking,” said Heyes, managing director of Digital Yacht. “Our company creates connected solutions for boaters, and yet my own boat nearly sank and was discharging polluted bilge water simply because I didn’t know the bilge pump had failed. There had to be a solution.”

That incident kicked off the development of Bilge iQ, a new intelligent bilge monitoring and environmental protection system that has since earned major industry awards.

Bilge iQ connects to any bilge pump through NMEA 2000 and displays pump status on a vessel’s multifunction display. Owners can control the pump from the MFD or use standard NMEA switching commands. A built-in wireless interface allows monitoring from a phone or tablet, giving boaters access to pump activity, current draw, cycle logs, and alarms for dry-run events, long run times, or pump failures. Bilge iQ also integrates with Victron Cerbo systems to enable remote oversight through the free VRM cloud platform.

“We developed a solution that allows boat owners to monitor and control the bilge pump,” Heyes said. “A sinking boat obviously poses major environmental risks, but on a day to day basis unmonitored bilge discharge is a problem.”

To address that broader concern, Digital Yacht partnered with Wave International, maker of Lloyd’s Register-approved Wavestream bilge filters. Wavestream units remove hydrocarbons and other contaminants down to 5 ppm, a level often required in marine protection zones and inland waterways.

“Digital Yacht contacted us about integrating the Wavestream filter into the Bilge iQ to create a comprehensive solution which would not only protect owners’ boats but also protect the environment,” said Paul Gullett, managing director of Wave International. “It ensures only clean water is pumped overboard.”

The combined system launched in September and was named Best New Product by the NMEA. In November, Bilge iQ earned the DAME Design Award for Environmental Design as well as a special mention for On Board Safety.

For boatowners, the solution offers something long overdue: a smarter way to keep water out of the boat and pollution out of the sea.

The post An Innovation in Bilge Monitoring: What Boaters Need to Know appeared first on Cruising World.

A through-hull is the plumbing component that passes through the hull. A seacock is the valve attached to the through-hull. Usually, a through-hull is visible only from the outside of the boat, while the seacock is visible only from inside the hull. 

The American Boat & Yacht Council’s standards for seacocks dictate that every through-hull fitting below the heeled waterline (everything that is “wet” when heeling to the toe rail) must be equipped with a seacock. The one exception to this rule is that fittings above the resting waterline may substitute a seacock for reinforced hose. (I use SAE J2006 exhaust hose with wire reinforcement.)   

Seacocks, like everything else on a boat, require regular inspection and service. Begin by locating every seacock and through-hull fitting aboard. Create a drawing or map, identifying each one and its application.   

Once the map is complete, inspect each seacock for signs of leakage or corrosion. Green or verdigris is normal for bronze fittings. You should expect to see that. However, if it is the result of leakage, that is concerning. 

Conversely, if any of the fittings appear to be pink, this is a sign of dezincification, a type of corrosion that is peculiar to brass. Brass is entirely unsuited to raw-water applications, and under no circumstances should it be used in this application. If you have nonmetallic seacocks, check those for cracks.

A properly installed seacock should be able to endure 500 pounds of static load for 30 seconds, applied to its most inboard rigidly attached fitting. It’s best to keep rigidly attached fittings to a minimum; ideally, this would be only a pipe-to-hose adapter, with all other fittings separated from the seacock by a section of hose. If any of yours look like they may not hold up to this test, then consider replacing them. 

In addition to inspecting seacock hardware, you should also look closely at hose clamps and backing blocks. Hose clamps should be free of all corrosion. Any brown discoloration is too much. It warrants replacement.  

While ABYC standards do not mandate dual clamps on seacock hoses, it’s prudent and cheap insurance to double up. Be sure to use the proper-length clamp. Long, excess tails are a laceration hazard. Even short tails can cause injuries in areas that are accessed regularly, such as under sinks and around engines. These tails should be bent down using needle-nose pliers, or they should be capped.

Backing blocks can be made from marine plywood (ideally, epoxy encapsulated), fiberglass flat stock known as GPO3, or epoxy stock known as G10. Backing blocks should not be made from solid timber, even if it is teak, as this is prone to cracking. They also should not be made from ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene or King StarBoard.  

Make certain that every seacock handle rotates freely through its full 90 degrees of travel, but no farther. If any are seized or especially difficult to move, they will require further attention. Some types of seacocks can be disassembled for cleaning and lubrication, while others can’t. If yours are the latter, and assuming that the vessel is hauled out, you may have success by removing the hose from the seacock, and then spraying or pouring penetrating oil into the cavity. Let it set for a few hours before you try again.  

At least one seacock manufacturer adds an extension to the handle for increased leverage.  If you have one of these, then it’s safe to use this approach. For all others, you may do so knowing that if the valve stem or handle breaks, it will need to be replaced. If the valve is seized, it would need replacement in any event.

Finally, some seacocks are designed to accept a Zerk fitting, which allows the cavity between the ball and body of the valve to be filled with grease. This prevents water from filling the space, which in turn prevents corrosion and keeps the parts moving freely. 

Steve D’Antonio offers services for boat owners and buyers through Steve D’Antonio Marine Consulting.

The post Seacock Safety: A Must-do Guide for Boat Owners appeared first on Cruising World.

RiteAire Marine introduced its newest whole-vessel dehumidification system at the Fort Lauderdale International Boat Show, giving owners of 40 to 50 foot cruising boats a purpose-built solution for year-round interior humidity control.

The new RAM 30 joins the company’s patented Whole Vessel Dehumidification System and extends RiteAire’s offerings to boats from 40 feet all the way to yachts over 125 feet. Designed specifically for smaller spaces, the RAM 30 delivers nearly five gallons of water removal per day when ducted into the full system.

The unit’s compact footprint is one of its standout features. At 14 inches wide, 30 inches high and only 5.75 inches deep, it can be tucked out of sight in tight mechanical spaces where larger RAM 75 and RAM 100 models would not fit.

“With the enormous popularity of cruising boats from 40 to 50 feet, we are proud to offer our patented whole-vessel solution for reducing humidity in this rapidly growing segment,” said RiteAire Marine Co-Owner Ted Reese.

The RAM 30 is designed to keep interiors dry, odor-free and comfortable in hot, humid climates where mold and moisture can take a toll on equipment, soft goods and onboard air quality. For cruising owners who store boats in the water year-round or make long seasonal passages, humidity control has become an increasingly important onboard system.

RiteAire Marine also announced that Ice Marine of North Palm Beach has joined its dealer and installer network. While the dealer appointment is part of the brand’s wider service growth, the company says the RAM 30 launch marks a major step toward making whole-vessel dehumidification more accessible to midsize-boat owners.

Since 2013 RiteAire Marine has installed its patented system on hundreds of yachts. The introduction of the RAM 30 further broadens the application of whole-vessel humidity management across a wider range of cruising boats.

The post RiteAire Marine Unveils New Dehumidifier for Midsize Boats appeared first on Cruising World.

As every cruiser knows, your engine might not be the heart of your boat, but it’s definitely the lifeline. That’s especially true when the wind dies or you need to punch through a tricky inlet.

With fall haul-out season approaching, it’s a good time to revisit the basics of diesel engine care: clean fuel, proper lubrication and smart layup strategies that help prevent problems offshore or dockside.  

To dig into some of the most common questions sailors have about fuel and oil systems, Cruising World spoke with Bill McDonald, a longtime pro angler and Lucas Oil ambassador whose marine experience extends to fishing and cruising vessels. From stabilizing fuel to catching wear issues early, here’s what he recommends for keeping your engine healthy, whether the boat is on passage or on the hard.

CW: Contaminants in diesel fuel and engine oil are a constant concern aboard cruising boats. What practical steps can sailors take to minimize contamination, and what role can additives play?

BM: Fuel contamination is one of the most common culprits behind engine problems offshore. Regular maintenance—changing fuel filters, draining water separators and keeping tanks full to minimize condensation—is your first line of defense. Additives designed for marine fuel systems can help disperse water, clean injectors and reduce buildup over time. I’ve used Lucas Marine Fuel Treatment for years in both gas and diesel engines. It’s made a noticeable difference in how clean my injectors stay. In the crankcase, oil stabilizers can provide an extra layer of protection by improving lubricity and reducing wear, which is especially useful when cruising far from shore-based repair options.

CW: Marine engines often sit idle for long periods. How can sailors preserve fuel and oil health during layups or long crossings?

BM: Fuel starts degrading the moment it’s stored. Using a stabilizer when you fill your tanks—ideally just before a long idle period—can help prevent oxidation and gumming. Once it’s added, run the engine briefly so the treated fuel circulates fully through the system. The same idea applies to oil stabilizers: Adding them before a layup helps coat internal components and protect against corrosion and dry starts when it’s time to fire up again.

CW: For sailors using ultra-low-sulfur diesel, what’s the risk of reduced lubricity, and how can that be addressed?

BM: ULSD lacks the lubricating properties of older diesel fuels, a characteristic that can lead to premature wear in injectors and pumps. Many cruisers now use upper-cylinder lubricants or fuel conditioners that restore some of that lost protection. They often include detergents too, which can be helpful for keeping older systems clean.

CW: Why is it important to use marine-specific lubricants instead of automotive products?

BM: Marine engines operate under tougher conditions: long hours at high rpm, and exposure to moisture and salt. Marine-grade oils are formulated to resist corrosion and foaming, and to maintain their properties under heavy load. Using automotive oil may not provide the protection your engine needs in these conditions. 

CW: When should sailors consider using oil additives, and what are the signs that it might help?

BM: Additives shouldn’t be used to mask a real issue, but they can help reduce wear, lower operating temperatures and extend engine life, especially in older engines. If your engine feels sluggish, runs rough or is harder to start than usual, it may be worth looking into oil treatment as part of a broader diagnostic and maintenance approach. 

CW: What’s your advice for diagnosing fuel system issues at sea, and how can sailors prepare?

BM: If your engine starts stumbling or loses power, it’s often a fuel problem: clogged filters, moisture or dirty fuel. Prevention is key. Treat fuel consistently, carry spare filters, and know how to change them underway. Having the right tools and basic familiarity with your fuel system goes a long way. 

CW: Some sailors still encounter ethanol-blended gasoline when fueling dinghy outboards or generators. What’s the risk, and how can it be managed? 

BM: Ethanol absorbs water and can lead to corrosion, phase separation, and damage to seals and hoses in small engines. If you can’t avoid ethanol-blended gas, then use a conditioner designed to counteract those effects. It’s a simple step that can prevent a lot of headaches, especially when fueling at unfamiliar docks.

CW: Do you have any advice for boats operating in tropical or high-humidity environments where corrosion is accelerated?

BM: Salt air and humidity are relentless. Rinse thoroughly with fresh water after outings, check electrical terminals for corrosion, and use anti-corrosion sprays where needed. Good airflow in the engine room or lazarette can also help reduce trapped moisture. Regular inspection is the best prevention.

CW: With more cruisers doing their own oil analysis, what should they be looking for? And can additives affect the results?

BM: Watch for signs like elevated wear metals, thinning viscosity or contamination. Additives can help reduce wear particles and maintain viscosity, especially under load. When I started adding Lucas Oil Stabilizer to my maintenance routine, I saw a drop in wear metals on my reports. But if analysis shows recurring problems, that’s your cue to adjust service intervals or investigate further.

CW: How often should fuel and oil systems be treated during extended cruising, and how does usage affect your maintenance schedule?

BM: Your maintenance rhythm should match your usage. Liveaboards and long-range cruisers may need to treat fuel and change oil every few hundred hours; seasonal sailors might only do this once or twice a year. What matters most is consistency and prepping properly before layup. If you’re using additives, follow the recommended ratios and make sure they’re mixed thoroughly and circulated through the system.

Our final takeaway? Marine engine health is about more than just oil changes. A full-system approach includes clean fuel, good airflow, and protection from corrosion and wear. Additives can help extend engine life, but only when they’re used alongside routine maintenance and thoughtful operation. 

It’s work, yes. But when the wind dies, you’ll be glad you put in the time.

The post Extend Your Marine Engine Life With These Tips appeared first on Cruising World.

Whether you’re out for a weekend cruise or logging ocean miles on an extended voyage, a reliable and hygienic freshwater system is essential to life afloat. Inconsistent pressure and biofilm buildup are among every boater’s challenges in managing onboard plumbing.

We spoke with the marine systems experts at Vetus to get practical insights into the common problems cruisers encounter, and what to consider when upgrading or maintaining fresh- and wastewater systems.

CW: What are the most common issues sailors face with freshwater systems?

V: Out on the water, two problems tend to pop up again and again: bacterial contamination in tanks and inconsistent water pressure. I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve opened a tank on a boat that had been sitting in the tropics for a while and found that telltale green tinge or a whiff of funk. When tanks sit full for long periods, especially in warm climates, bacteria and algae can take hold. The trouble gets worse when the tanks have no easy way in for cleaning or inspection. If you can, choose tanks with large inspection ports or removable lids; it makes regular maintenance and flushes a quick Saturday morning job instead of a full-on project.  

Water pressure woes, such as pulsing or surging at the tap, are another favorite gremlin. More often than not, an undersized or aging pump is to blame, or a system that is missing an accumulator tank altogether. A properly sized pressurized water system with built-in pressure regulation does more than make the flow steady. It makes the everyday stuff, from dishwashing to taking a shower to rinsing salty gear, feel civilized instead of frustrating.

CW: How have modern freshwater systems evolved to meet the needs of long-distance cruisers?

V: These days, durability and ease of maintenance sit at the heart of good freshwater system design. When you are hundreds of miles from the nearest marina, you cannot count on finding a spare pump or the right fitting. Every part of the system, from tanks and hoses to fittings and pumps, has to be able to handle constant use in a salty, often remote environment.  

The good news is that materials and layouts have come a long way. Tanks are built from tougher, more stable materials, pumps are more reliable, and smarter system designs make it easier for owners to handle upkeep themselves. Features such as inspection ports let you install extra gear like senders or sensors without major surgery. Corrosion-resistant hardware and simplified plumbing runs also mean you spend less time chasing leaks and more time focusing on the passage ahead.

CW: What’s new when it comes to conserving water on passage, especially with marine toilets?

V: Modern marine toilets are designed to use less water per flush without giving up hygiene or comfort. Better bowl shapes, smooth cleanable surfaces, and improved flushing mechanisms all work together to reduce overall water use.  

Wastewater management is another part of the conservation picture. Holding tanks and transfer systems are now built from lighter, stronger materials that resist corrosion and are easier to keep clean. These designs also help limit environmental impact. For the long-distance cruiser, the goal is to enjoy the same comfort and convenience you would have in a marina, while taking a responsible approach to both water use and waste handling at sea.

CW: What should boat owners look for when upgrading a water pressure pump?

V: Put quiet operation, energy efficiency, and the ability to run for long stretches at the top of your list. The latest pumps often come with helpful features such as thermal protection, dry-run capability, and integrated check valves. These reduce common failure points and can make installation simpler.  

If your system doesn’t already have one, add an accumulator tank during the upgrade. This small piece of gear smooths out pulsing at the tap and cuts down on pump cycling. The result is a quieter system that uses less battery power and keeps things running smoothly on long passages.

CW: What tank materials and designs are best for onboard use, and how can sailors ensure good hygiene over time?

V: For freshwater, look for tanks built from food-grade, non-corrosive materials such as linear polyethylene. Seamless construction lowers the risk of leaks, and internal baffles help keep water from sloshing around while you are under sail. For wastewater, similar materials provide the strength you need along with good odor resistance.  

Easy access for inspection and cleaning is essential. Larger ports and modular inspection systems make it simple to check the inside of a tank and flush it when needed. In tight spaces, a flexible tank can be a smart option. These tanks conform to the shape of the hull and can fit into compartments where a rigid tank will not go.  CW: Wastewater systems are one of those chores most boat owners would rather not think about, at least until something smells or clogs. What makes for a setup you can rely on without the drama?

V: It starts with odor control, corrosion resistance, and maintenance you can actually keep up with. Thick-walled synthetic tanks with built-in odor barriers do a great job of keeping smells where they belong. Good ventilation is also important, and an inline carbon filter will stop most odors before they even reach the cabin.  

A few smart design choices help too. Narrower hoses, around 19 mm, can improve flow and cut down on the chance of blockages. Inspection ports make it easier to keep tabs on what is going on inside and to give the system a proper cleaning. Even small upgrades like adding a lid opener for sealed tanks or using a biodegradable treatment such as TankFresh can turn a headache into a system you hardly have to think about, which is the real goal when it comes to wastewater at sea.

CW: Odor control is one of those must-get-right parts of any waste system. How do you keep smells from taking over, and what are some best practices sailors should follow?

V: Ventilation is key. You want large-diameter hose runs that slope downward so waste doesn’t hang around and cause trouble. Good airflow through the tank is essential, and “no smell” filters can trap odors before they even escape the vent line.  

Electric toilets with macerators also help a lot. They break down waste and push it through the system more efficiently, which means less buildup and fewer smells. For best results, check regularly for blockages, make sure hose connections are tight, and rinse tanks often with odor-neutralizing treatments. Keeping on top of these simple steps makes life aboard much more pleasant.

CW: Are there digital monitoring systems that help sailors keep tabs on tank levels and system performance?

V: Absolutely. Noncontact ultrasonic level sensors have really changed the game. They give accurate readings for freshwater, fuel, and black- and gray-water tanks without the wear and tear you get from mechanical senders. You can hook these sensors up to a central display, so you get real-time updates on multiple tanks all at once.  

This kind of setup is a huge help on long passages where managing fresh water and holding tank capacity is critical. Smart monitoring means fewer surprises and lets crews stay ahead of any issues before they become problems.

CW: How do these systems integrate with the rest of the boat, especially in tight spaces or custom installations?

V: Many tanks, pumps, and plumbing parts are designed to be modular and compact so they can slip into tight spots without choking off flow or hurting reliability.  

Flexible hoses and ready-to-go installation kits really come in handy on older boats or ones with unusual hull shapes. The last thing you want is a system that forces you into a tangle of rerouted lines every time you try to upgrade. The goal is smooth performance with as little fuss as possible, so you spend less time under the boat and more time enjoying the water.

CW: How can sailors extend the life of their plumbing systems, whether for seasonal or bluewater cruising?

V: It really comes down to regular care. Think of it like giving your boat a little daily attention so it doesn’t throw a fit when you need it most. Clean those freshwater tanks often—nothing worse than algae or bacteria throwing a wrench in your water quality. Swap out filters like clockwork to keep everything tasting fresh and running smooth.  

For waste tanks, treatments like TankFresh are a game changer. They help break down waste naturally and keep the stink at bay, which makes life aboard a lot more pleasant for everyone. After each use, flush your hoses with clean water to avoid nasty blockages and that stagnant water funk nobody wants.  

And don’t forget to eyeball your hoses and fittings regularly for leaks or wear. Ventilation systems need some love too—check for blockages and swap out odor filters before they lose their punch. Stick with these simple habits, and your systems will thank you by staying reliable whether you’re crossing oceans or just keeping the boat ready between trips.

Top Tips for a Trouble-Free Water System

Install inspection ports. Add large, accessible ports to fresh and wastewater tanks for easy cleaning and checks.

Use vent filters. A carbon-based “no smell” filter on your tank vent line can eliminate most odors before they enter the cabin.

Add an accumulator tank. This helps smooth out pulsing pressure and reduces pump cycling. It’s especially useful for long-term cruisers.

Choose flexible hoses. Marine-grade hoses with built-in odor barriers make tight routing easier, and they last longer.

Monitor with ultrasonic sensors. Non-contact level monitors prevent overflows, alert you to shortages, and reduce maintenance surprises.

The post Avoid Common Boating Plumbing Pitfalls With These Tips appeared first on Cruising World.

At some point, all of us classic-boat owners are faced with the expensive, time-consuming task of replacing the decks.

Teak is the preferred material, right?

Maybe. Maybe not.

I was faced with this predicament 20 years ago, when the teak decks on Searcher, our Bowman 57 ketch, needed to be replaced. The teak on the working decks was 30 years old and getting paper-thin. Bungs were missing, screwheads were showing, and the seam caulking was coming adrift.

So, I went looking for teak options. One alternative was cheap, plastic linoleum that tried to look like teak. There was real African teak or iroko, greenheart and tigerwood, but these, I thought, were better suited for a patio deck. Costa Rican teak might cost around $160 per square meter. I could have saved that money and instead painted the decks with antislip, but I never liked its look or effectiveness.

In 2004, I replaced the teak on the bow and working decks with Lewmar’s Treadmaster, an aggressively nonslip decking material with a diamond pattern. It comes in 3-by-4-foot sheets, is easily cut with a knife or shears, and is glued down over metal or fiberglass decks with a two-part epoxy. It’s maintenance-free and inexpensive.

A square meter of Treadmaster costs around $200. Teak is about the same, but far more labor-intensive and might require hiring professionals at $90 an hour. Treadmaster, I could install myself.

It took me a month to remove the old teak and fair the fiberglass decks, which were severely damaged during the removal process. I also had to remove and rebed the jib sheet tracks and other deck fittings.

Once the decks were faired, I drew out the pattern on the deck in pencil, cut out pieces of brown wrapping paper to fit, taped them down, and took a look. Nice. I then labeled the templates and the deck, and cut the Treadmaster to match. It took me a week to epoxy the Treadmaster panels in place, weighting them down with sandbags. Done.

Today, all I have to do is hose it off. But don’t fall on it, or you’ll wind up with a diamond imprint on your knees.

Another Option for Teak Decks

Five years later, the teak on the aft deck and the cockpit seats needed replacing. I wasn’t about to use Treadmaster here, with aesthetic considerations and soft behinds to take into account.

I found Stazo marinedeck, a Dutch product that’s available here in the United States. The distributor was in Thomaston, Maine, just 10 miles down the coast. This marine decking is made from compressed cork combined with a binder. It looks like teak (well, close enough) and comes in strips and sheets, all one-third of an inch thick. It does not absorb moisture, is much lighter, is a better insulator, is maintenance-free and is cooler underfoot than teak. After 15 years, all it needed was a light sanding to return to its original condition.

I also found it less expensive than teak, at $400 a square meter. It was easily cut and shaped, and I could do the installation myself. 

For that project, it took me two weeks just to remove the teak and fair the fiberglass subsurface. Cutting and fitting the cork was fun, like putting together a jigsaw puzzle. This part, I did dry: cutting the strips, fitting them in place and numbering each one with corresponding numbers on the deck. 

Then began the messy part: applying tubes of deck caulk in a caulking gun, spreading out the gooey stuff with a serrated trowel over a small section of deck, fitting a few strips in place and applying pressure, scraping up the goo that oozed out, and spreading it over the next section.

When I asked the guys at a nearby yard for suggestions, they told me they used their wives’ old dresses as smocks. “You’ll get this stuff all over yourself,” they warned. I did.

Once the cork was placed and rolled out, it needed a few days to cure. The next step involved filling and troweling the seams. This created a real mess. I began by taping the seams but then gave up, as troweling the caulk just spread the stuff outside the tape. The decks were covered in black goo. 

After a few days, the seam compound had set, and I hit the entire deck with a belt sander. It was a joy to watch the new and now-clean decks emerge from the black mess I’d created.

After 14 years of ownership and three voyages down to and back from the Eastern Caribbean, I sold Searcher in 2014. The boat sat neglected by the buyer in a Belgian marina for eight years after that. Matthi Pieters, a Belgian shipwright, then acquired it, and over the next two years, he rebuilt a significant portion of the boat’s interior, excluding the decks.

Matthi shared his progress with me and other Bowman 57 owners in our Facebook group. He recently sent me photos and this report: “We had to do some work on the cork deck, but now it looks very good again. There were some little gaps in the seams, which we cut out and filled. Water had gotten under some planks in the cockpit, which we removed and re-bedded. After a light sanding, the cork looks new. Some of the Treadmaster decking had become porous and discolored. So, we painted it with a thin epoxy. The edges of some sections of the Treadmaster were lifting. We need to re-epoxy these to fix the edges. Next summer, we’ll repaint the entire deck. The best thing would be to replace the Treadmaster. But to save costs, we try it this way for now.”

I wrote to Matthi recently about a newer product: Treadmaster’s Treadcote, an epoxy paint. It’s Lewmar’s answer to restoring heavily weathered and stained original Treadmaster decking.

Searcher has been renamed We’ll Sea and is now back in the water, with a new engine and rebuilt interior. The jade-green hull is now painted light gray. Matthi and his family sailed We’ll Sea from Belgium to London this past summer, with plans for more ambitious adventures down the road. 

She may have lost her teak, but she’s gained a new lease on life, and she’ll have a few more stories to tell from the other side of the spray.    

Based in Maine, David H. Lyman has owned and sailed four yachts in his more than half a decade of cruising in the Atlantic and Caribbean.

The post Teak Deck Replacement Options for Classic Cruisers appeared first on Cruising World.

Fixing your boat is a big part of the cruising life. After years afloat and more than a few refits in far-flung ports, I’ve learned that sometimes, calling in a professional is the smartest and safest option.

But finding the right help, staying on schedule and ensuring the job gets done right can be just as challenging as the project itself. 

Based on lessons learned the hard way (and a few wins worth repeating), here’s a practical guide to hiring and managing contractors, wherever your cruising plans take you.

Pick the Right Contractor (for You)

Marina and yard directories, as well as online forums, list contractors in each area, but word of mouth is still the best resource. Reach out to your own contacts, as well as the local cruisers’ network, for recommendations. Ask people about their personal experience with a contractor. 

When you connect with a contractor, discuss your needs and desired timeline, and gain an understanding of their capabilities and availability. If your insurance company requires contractors to have certification requirements, does this contractor have them? Does the job require liability insurance, and if so, does the contractor have it? 

Schedule an initial visit on board to outline your requirements and preferences, and to learn about their approach to the job. If you won’t be on-site during the work, how often would you like updates?

If you’re doing a technical refit, confirm that the contractor will include time for training at the end, as well as for follow-up questions in the coming weeks. If it’s an electrical project, ask if the contractor will provide a professionally drawn schematic of the new system. 

Get things in writing whenever possible. And if you’re flexible, it’s worth adjusting your schedule to work with the right person.

Plan Ahead 

We’ve all been there: Something breaks (again) and needs to be fixed (immediately). Hopefully, you can find a contractor to begin work quickly. But if you have a big project on the horizon, plan as far ahead as possible.

If you have a tight timeframe, you can ask your contractor if they can work overtime to accommodate it, but expecting them to do so is unreasonable.

Bigger jobs require multiple workdays or even weeks, and parts that likely need to be sourced ahead of time. Contractors can book up three or four months in advance, especially during hurricane season or cold winters, when boaters prioritize maintenance. Some places in the hurricane belt close up shop altogether for the season.

Secure your slot as early as possible, and consider adjusting your cruising plans to accommodate your contractor’s availability.

Create a Realistic Timeline 

Contractors want to get your job done on time, but boat projects can take longer than expected for a variety of reasons. Maybe a critical part is delayed in transit, or a weather system compromises the sunny, dry days required for the job. When work begins, more problems may come to light that expand the project scope.

These challenges can be navigated with open communication and a flexible schedule. Allow space between the project completion date and the start of your next adventure, so plans aren’t upended if complications arise. Seasoned boaters have a general rule: Whatever the time estimate, add a third.

Effectively Source Parts

Sourcing parts is a critical step in any project. The sooner you secure them, the better. In the islands, some parts can take a month to arrive. If you’re planning to hire a contractor, make it part of the job for him or her to order the parts, so you’ll have a guarantee. For large projects involving rigging, electrical or mechanical systems, the contractor can handle the many variables at play. He or she likely has relationships with suppliers and international brokers to ensure smooth customs clearance and delivery.

Hire a Project Manager for Complex Jobs

If you’re maximizing your time away from the boat by completing multiple projects at once, hire a project manager. Delays aren’t the only reason; another potential problem is confusion about who is responsible for what, and in what order. If your project involves multiple contractors, don’t assume one has authority or control over the others’ schedules.

A project manager, as the primary point of contact, keeps things moving, defuses any issues, and communicates with you regularly. 

Understand the Area’s Culture

Understanding the local culture is also beneficial. If you’re getting work done in the Caribbean, the workday may start and end early to avoid the oppressive afternoon sun. In the French islands, a longer lunch break may be part of the day’s structure.

In many areas outside the United States, contractors communicate through WhatsApp. In more remote places, they may not have access to email or even regular cell service for calls or texts. In those cases, in-person communication is key. 

While some contractors are diversifying their payment methods with apps, some places still operate in a cash-based society. That may require planning on your part if banks are only open a few days a week and have daily limits on cash withdrawals.

Be Respectful

Extending respect both ways is a critical part of any working relationship. If you have a tight timeframe, you can certainly ask your contractor if they can work overtime to accommodate it, but expecting them to do so is unreasonable.

For many cruisers, days run together, but contractors operate on a regular workweek. Save your calls and messages for work hours, and allow for a reasonable response time. They may be upside down in an engine room or hoisted up a mast. If you have multiple questions, ask for a quick call or in-person meeting rather than sending successive messages.

With planning, open communication and some flexibility, your project can come to a successful conclusion with invaluable knowledge gained along the way. And remember: Share your experience with other boaters when they’re in the market for a great contractor.

The post 5 Secrets to Hiring the Best Boat Contractors appeared first on Cruising World.

Repairing Awlgrip paint can feel intimidating, but with a little patience and the right technique, it’s possible to get a result that protects your boat and looks good from a boat length away. This step-by-step method is based on a completed repair our Cheoy Lee 41, Avocet, that’s been out in the weather for a year, imperfections and all.

Our repair began, as they all should, with a close inspection. Scratches had cut clean through the Awlgrip topcoat and primer, but stopped at the gelcoat. That was good news because no filling or fairing was needed. A careful sanding would suffice to prepare the surface for new paint.

Preparation is the make-or-break stage. We cleaned the damaged area thoroughly to remove salt, grime and oily residue that could sabotage adhesion. We laid painter’s tape about an inch beyond the damage, giving enough room to feather the edges without accidentally sanding into sound paint. 

Sanding started with 220-grit paper to knock down the rough spots, then moved to 320-grit to smooth the transition until the repair area blended into the surrounding surface. The goal was to make the edge disappear to the touch before ever opening a paint can.

Ideally, a compatible Awlgrip primer would have gone down next, but in this case, none was on hand. The job went straight to topcoat—because in the real world, repairs sometimes must happen with what’s available. Using the roll-and-tip method, we applied a thin, even coat of topcoat with a roller, then tipped it immediately with a clean, high-quality brush to pop any bubbles and level the finish. Once the first coat was tacky, we repeated the process until three coats had built up enough coverage for durability.

Fresh paint is fragile, so we shielded the repair area from sun, wind and airborne grit with a simple protective cover. Even a draped cloth or improvised shelter can make the difference between a clean cure and a dusty mess.

A year later, the repair is still intact. There’s no peeling, no major fading. Up close, a slight sag in the middle reveals where a little too much paint was applied in one pass, but the topsides look far better than with those deep, visible scratches. From the dock or under sail, the flaw is invisible.

Looking back, there are lessons for anyone tackling Awlgrip repairs. Airbrushing or using a small spray gun can make it easier to feather edges and blend new paint with the old. And while Awlgrip’s hardness is great for longevity, it’s less forgiving for small touchups. Alternatives like Alexseal, though designed for spraying, can be wet-sanded and buffed to create near-invisible repairs.

The takeaway? You don’t have to chase perfection to get worthwhile results. With solid prep, careful application and a little protection during curing, an Awlgrip repair can keep a boat looking cared-for and ready for the next voyage.

Follow SV Avocet’s Chris and Marissa Neely at svavocet.com. 

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The internet is replete with guidance—some of it accurate—on the subject of auxiliary diesel engine maintenance and upkeep. There is, however, far less discussion on the subject of marine gears, otherwise known as transmissions.

Transmissions ­commonly run into problems too. For instance, the control cables. They’re the traditional connection between the shift lever in the cockpit and the gear down in the engine compartment. This system is a telegraph of sorts. Pushing it forward or aft mimics the same movement on the gear’s own shift lever.

The cable, which is made up of a steel core and a steel wire jacket covered in plastic, is fairly reliable unless it gets wet. Then it can rust and seize. The jacket can also melt if it comes into contact with a dry exhaust component. More likely failures involve various ways that the cable jacket may be immobilized and how the core is attached at each end.  

The jacket clamp is critical. If it’s a gate style, then it should be safety-wired into place. If it’s a saddle, then it should be secured with self-locking or double nuts. If it loosens and the jacket is allowed to move, then shift control will be lost (and possibly stuck in gear).

The connection of the core to the shift lever must rely on proprietary parts from the cable manufacturer, including proper jaws, clevis and split pins. Don’t use common nuts and bolts. Check the interfacing parts for wear, a task that requires disassembly. Ensure that cable-end locknuts are tight. Make certain the cable is adjusted properly so that when it is in gear, the lever is fully engaged. Also be sure you know how to engage the lever manually if necessary.

For the coolers, be aware that there are two types of marine gears: mechanical and hydraulic. Up to about 100 hp, most engines are mated to a mechanical gear. Larger engines often utilize hydraulic gears. 

Many, but not all, of the mechanical gears use an oil cooler that is bolted to the gear housing. It removes heat through the case wall without ever coming into contact with the oil.  

Hydraulic transmissions utilize a traditional heat exchanger with oil on one side and seawater on the other side. 

Coolers used on both types of gears are prone to corrosion and leaking. Hydraulic gear coolers, because the pressure is much higher, will leak oil into cooling water initially. Coolers used on hydraulic gears can become clogged because they rely on small-diameter tube bundles.

Damper plates, also called torsional couplings, connect the engine’s flywheel, or output, to the gear’s input shaft. This system uses springs or a flexible, rubberlike insert to absorb shock when shifting. If the springs break, or if the flexible material cracks or disintegrates, you might lose all propulsion, or it simply might get very noisy. (Some plates are fail-safe; they will maintain contact but lose all damping ability.)  

If you notice a change in noise when shifting, or if you notice rubber or metal fragments under the after end of the engine, it might be an indication of a failing damper plate. Some bell housings (the cover that surrounds the damper plate) have ports that will allow for limited inspection without disassembly.

Finally, check your marine gear’s oil. This lubricant isn’t subject to the same sort of combustion contamination and heat degradation as engine crankcase oil, but it does wear out or shear, losing viscosity. It can also become contaminated with metal or moisture.  

Hydraulic transmissions usually call for replacement every 500 to 1,000 hours, which is an eternity for most sailing vessels. It’s either the number of hours or every six to 12 months, whichever comes first.  

Make certain you use the correct lubricant for your gear. Some systems require straight weight (not multiweight) ­motor oil, while others use auto­matic-transmission fluid. Also check the level correctly. Most ­hydraulic gears call for checking the level while running warm at idle and in neutral. By contrast, the mechanical gear oil level is checked at rest. Follow your manufacturer’s instructions.

Because the sump capacity is usually comparatively small, the cost of changing this oil annually is also small and offers a good return on investment. Ideally, have the oil analyzed as well. If your gear is hydraulic, it may have a filter (internal or external), and it probably has a suction screen. Remember to change or clean these too.  

Steve D’Antonio offers services for boat owners and buyers through Steve D’Antonio Marine Consulting.

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Gusting winds drive clouds of spray right across the bay. Deluges of rain blast across the long jetty that leads past the workshop and out to Sahula’sberth. I watch through my office window as the boatsurges against its mooring lines. Tropical Storm Tam has moved south to cover our part of New Zealand and is now officially a cyclone, one that is forecast to linger for another two or three days.

I am making little progress on the article I am trying to write. Yes, the window-shaking gusts of wind are a distraction. But the real culprit? A sheet of paper titled “Sahula’s Work List.”It lies right next to my computer.

It has been 16 months since we last made an ocean passage, south from a season in New Caledonia to my home base in New Zealand. Earlier this year, we decided to set sail and cross the Tasman Sea. Our goal: a leisurely meander through the islands and waterways of Australia’s Great Barrier Reef. Now we are just five weeks away from our planned departure, and Sahula’s work list still has 27 items on it. Most of them require relatively calm weather.

Yesterday, I printed out a ­copy and showed it to my partner, David. “Here’s what I need to get done before we set sail,” I told him.

“Need to or want to?” he queried.

His words echo through my mind as I try to work on an article about one of the yachts that my husband, Larry, and I delivered to finance our early cruising days. 

Back then, much of the cruising fleet was made up of smaller boats sailed by cruisers who looked for ways to earn as they wandered. Thus, there was a lot of competition for ­delivery jobs. When the owner of a big US-flagged ketch put the word out in Mallorca, Spain, that he needed someone to sail his boat back to New Orleans, a half-dozen cruisers wanted the job. The owner asked for a fixed price quote, one that would include the time and ­expenses of getting the boat seaworthy enough to set sail ­after ­having been sitting unused and neglected for two years. 

We really wanted the job. Our cruising kitty was getting low, and we welcomed the chance for an affordable visit to friends and family back home. We worked hard to come up with a competitive bid. We did a careful survey of the boat. The potential work list kept expanding: Haul the boat to remove a 2-inch mat of barnacles and growth, renew the upper shrouds that had broken strands just above the lower swages, repair two of the three bilge pumps, create a temporary whisker pole (the original had been lost in a blow). There was almost a whole page filled with faulty electrical items. The engine needed attention. By the time we sat down to work out our quote, the list was three pages long.

“OK, let’s be logical,” Larry said.  “We need to ensure that the boat stays afloat, the water stays out of the boat, the mast stays up, the sails go up and down, the rudder works, the stove works, and we can get fresh water out of the water tanks. Everything else is either a convenience or a luxury.” 

Then Larry began circling the items that fell into his “essential” category. With his cutback list, we figured it would take us about 15 days to get the boat underway, and 65 days to make the passage. The results: Our quote won. We got the boat to its owner within the time frame he’d requested. We had to do some jury-rigging along the way. We did put up with some inconveniences. But a few months later, we returned to where Seraffyn lay waiting near Mallorca, with enough “freedom chips” to cruise onward for another year.

I often think of that delivery trip when I meet people who have had their cruising dreams delayed or missed weather windows or even abandoned their plans because of “the work list.” That is why, when Larry and I presented seminars called “Priorities for Successful Cruising,” we would end the day by saying: “Two weeks before your planned departure, sit down and write out a complete work list. Add every job you think you should do. Then, go out on deck and let the wind blow the list away.  Rush below and write down the first six things you remember. Those are probably the most important ones. Get them done and go.”

That is the reality of caring for a boat, which is both your home and your adventure machine. There will always be things that could be done to make the boat easier to use or prettier. Things that might make life afloat “better.” 

The truth is, during all my voyaging life—which has ­included 100 or more ocean passages, included sailing with Larry on two different boats, ­doing delivery trips and, more recently, sailing with my current partner, David, on Sahula—there was only one time when every item was crossed off the predeparture work list. That was only when I agreed to sail with Larry on board 29-foot, engine-free Taleisin from the Atlantic to the Pacific around Cape Horn. The one condition I had: Everything had to be checked off the list when we made our attempt.

This was important to me for several reasons. It was highly likely we would face extreme weather. We might have to stay at sea for up to a month at a time. Our gear, our stamina would be severely tested. Crossing the very last item off the list just before we left Mar del Plata in Argentina and headed for The Horn helped ease the last concerns I had. (That last item? Put two changes of clothes plus a clean towel in vacuum-packed bags for emergencies.)

But the voyage I am now contemplating is not a bash around a great southern cape. It is the sixth time I will be sailing across the 1,300-mile width of the Tasman Sea. Even with unfavorable winds, it is unlikely we will be at sea for more than 10 or 12 days. With these thoughts in mind, I ­become determined to get something useful done despite the stormy weather.

I pull up my electronic copy of the Sahula work list. I put a check mark next to the items I know are essential to having a safer voyage: Add nonslip and paint the deck; sort the port vang line block; set up and test the Iridium Go for at-sea weather forecasts. 

An “M” (for “maybe”) goes next to a few other items that I really would like to get done if possible: Put trim over the new wiring in the loo, paint the compass, strip and varnish the companionway surrounds. 

I reluctantly put an “X” next to items that I realize might never get off the work list: Make a cover for the panel next to the companionway; add trim at the far end of galley. The list ends up with only seven check-marked must-do items and five marked “M.”  

As I am obviously not in the mood to write, I decide to brave the wind and rain, and head down toward the jetty. Though the wild weather precludes working on any of the check-marked jobs, there are two on the “M” list that I can do in the workshop.

As I begin cutting the first piece of foam which will ensure that my wineglasses and porcelain teacups will survive even the roughest sea, I think of David’s words. 

He was right. I was letting myself feel trapped by a work list cluttered with want-to’s.  Cutting back to the need-to’s set me free. 

After cruising more than 240,000 miles, US Sailing Hall of Fame inductee Lin Pardey is headed to sea again. Her latest book, Passages: Cape Horn and Beyond, encourages folks to go simple, go small, and go now.

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