Our Stevens 47, Totem, is anchored with 370 feet of chain in 90 feet of water off Majuro Atoll. Around us lie the rusting hulks of cargo ships. We are also amid the coral reefs, aquaculture pens, and a mooring area with a half-dozen cruising boats. Squalls are frequent here, just 7 degrees north of the equator, in the capital of the Marshall Islands. 

Between downpours, my husband, Jamie, and I dinghy in to collect a package at the post office. It’s filled with pure convenience. Two weeks earlier, our portable gas generator wouldn’t start. This isn’t a problem in mostly sunny places, where Totem’s 1,215 watts of solar typically exceed our power needs, but here in the Intertropical Convergence Zone, thick cloud cover blots out the sun for days at a time. 

Without solar power, the suitcase-size generator is essential for charging our batteries. Jamie tried everything to diagnose and fix the issue: carburetor, fuel pump, spark plug, coil, oil sensor. No luck.

There was no suitable replacement available locally, but a shipping agent in Honolulu, for a nominal fee, helped us purchase and deliver a new Honda EU2200i. We might have squeaked by without it, but with more remote islands ahead and a desire to avoid running engine hours just to charge batteries, this felt like a worthy investment. 

Since then, we’ve found the generator’s portability to be vitally useful. At a remote atoll, we once hauled it ashore to power our tools for repairing a rudder on a boat that had struck a coral reef.

Back aboard Totem, Jamie marinized this new generator. A single hour spent adding protective coatings will make future maintenance far easier. Jamie started by removing the exposed fasteners one at a time to apply Tef-Gel to the threads. Once reinstalled, the exposed heads got a coat of CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor or Boeshield T-9.

Next, Jamie marinized the rubber feet that help dampen vibration and sound. Each foot is held on with a bolt—one that tends to rust, stain the deck, and eventually fail. In the past, Jamie tried protective coatings, but none lasted. This time, he filled the inside of the rubber feet with silicone to create a water barrier. If you try this, keep the generator upright if there’s any oil or gas inside.

For the exhaust muffler, Jamie removed the plastic cover and the muffler itself, then sprayed the muffler with high-heat paint for protection. Covering the generator when not in use also helps keep internal components protected from rain and spray.

Once this was all done, and after the engine oil and gas were added, there was one final step before putting the generator into service: installing an hour meter. Ours is activated by engine vibration, giving us a quick visual cue for tracking run time and performing scheduled maintenance. No guesswork. No forgotten log entries. Just change the oil, clean the air filter, and stay on top of maintenance based on real hours run.

With electrical convenience restored, we’re able to top up the batteries and water tanks once again. We’d be catching up on laundry too—but the generator doesn’t keep squalls away, and we’ll need a little more sun to dry our clothes.

The post Why A Marinized Generator is a Must for Cruisers appeared first on Cruising World.

Whether you’re out for a weekend cruise or logging ocean miles on an extended voyage, a reliable and hygienic freshwater system is essential to life afloat. Inconsistent pressure and biofilm buildup are among every boater’s challenges in managing onboard plumbing.

We spoke with the marine systems experts at Vetus to get practical insights into the common problems cruisers encounter, and what to consider when upgrading or maintaining fresh- and wastewater systems.

CW: What are the most common issues sailors face with freshwater systems?

V: Out on the water, two problems tend to pop up again and again: bacterial contamination in tanks and inconsistent water pressure. I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve opened a tank on a boat that had been sitting in the tropics for a while and found that telltale green tinge or a whiff of funk. When tanks sit full for long periods, especially in warm climates, bacteria and algae can take hold. The trouble gets worse when the tanks have no easy way in for cleaning or inspection. If you can, choose tanks with large inspection ports or removable lids; it makes regular maintenance and flushes a quick Saturday morning job instead of a full-on project.  

Water pressure woes, such as pulsing or surging at the tap, are another favorite gremlin. More often than not, an undersized or aging pump is to blame, or a system that is missing an accumulator tank altogether. A properly sized pressurized water system with built-in pressure regulation does more than make the flow steady. It makes the everyday stuff, from dishwashing to taking a shower to rinsing salty gear, feel civilized instead of frustrating.

CW: How have modern freshwater systems evolved to meet the needs of long-distance cruisers?

V: These days, durability and ease of maintenance sit at the heart of good freshwater system design. When you are hundreds of miles from the nearest marina, you cannot count on finding a spare pump or the right fitting. Every part of the system, from tanks and hoses to fittings and pumps, has to be able to handle constant use in a salty, often remote environment.  

The good news is that materials and layouts have come a long way. Tanks are built from tougher, more stable materials, pumps are more reliable, and smarter system designs make it easier for owners to handle upkeep themselves. Features such as inspection ports let you install extra gear like senders or sensors without major surgery. Corrosion-resistant hardware and simplified plumbing runs also mean you spend less time chasing leaks and more time focusing on the passage ahead.

CW: What’s new when it comes to conserving water on passage, especially with marine toilets?

V: Modern marine toilets are designed to use less water per flush without giving up hygiene or comfort. Better bowl shapes, smooth cleanable surfaces, and improved flushing mechanisms all work together to reduce overall water use.  

Wastewater management is another part of the conservation picture. Holding tanks and transfer systems are now built from lighter, stronger materials that resist corrosion and are easier to keep clean. These designs also help limit environmental impact. For the long-distance cruiser, the goal is to enjoy the same comfort and convenience you would have in a marina, while taking a responsible approach to both water use and waste handling at sea.

CW: What should boat owners look for when upgrading a water pressure pump?

V: Put quiet operation, energy efficiency, and the ability to run for long stretches at the top of your list. The latest pumps often come with helpful features such as thermal protection, dry-run capability, and integrated check valves. These reduce common failure points and can make installation simpler.  

If your system doesn’t already have one, add an accumulator tank during the upgrade. This small piece of gear smooths out pulsing at the tap and cuts down on pump cycling. The result is a quieter system that uses less battery power and keeps things running smoothly on long passages.

CW: What tank materials and designs are best for onboard use, and how can sailors ensure good hygiene over time?

V: For freshwater, look for tanks built from food-grade, non-corrosive materials such as linear polyethylene. Seamless construction lowers the risk of leaks, and internal baffles help keep water from sloshing around while you are under sail. For wastewater, similar materials provide the strength you need along with good odor resistance.  

Easy access for inspection and cleaning is essential. Larger ports and modular inspection systems make it simple to check the inside of a tank and flush it when needed. In tight spaces, a flexible tank can be a smart option. These tanks conform to the shape of the hull and can fit into compartments where a rigid tank will not go.  CW: Wastewater systems are one of those chores most boat owners would rather not think about, at least until something smells or clogs. What makes for a setup you can rely on without the drama?

V: It starts with odor control, corrosion resistance, and maintenance you can actually keep up with. Thick-walled synthetic tanks with built-in odor barriers do a great job of keeping smells where they belong. Good ventilation is also important, and an inline carbon filter will stop most odors before they even reach the cabin.  

A few smart design choices help too. Narrower hoses, around 19 mm, can improve flow and cut down on the chance of blockages. Inspection ports make it easier to keep tabs on what is going on inside and to give the system a proper cleaning. Even small upgrades like adding a lid opener for sealed tanks or using a biodegradable treatment such as TankFresh can turn a headache into a system you hardly have to think about, which is the real goal when it comes to wastewater at sea.

CW: Odor control is one of those must-get-right parts of any waste system. How do you keep smells from taking over, and what are some best practices sailors should follow?

V: Ventilation is key. You want large-diameter hose runs that slope downward so waste doesn’t hang around and cause trouble. Good airflow through the tank is essential, and “no smell” filters can trap odors before they even escape the vent line.  

Electric toilets with macerators also help a lot. They break down waste and push it through the system more efficiently, which means less buildup and fewer smells. For best results, check regularly for blockages, make sure hose connections are tight, and rinse tanks often with odor-neutralizing treatments. Keeping on top of these simple steps makes life aboard much more pleasant.

CW: Are there digital monitoring systems that help sailors keep tabs on tank levels and system performance?

V: Absolutely. Noncontact ultrasonic level sensors have really changed the game. They give accurate readings for freshwater, fuel, and black- and gray-water tanks without the wear and tear you get from mechanical senders. You can hook these sensors up to a central display, so you get real-time updates on multiple tanks all at once.  

This kind of setup is a huge help on long passages where managing fresh water and holding tank capacity is critical. Smart monitoring means fewer surprises and lets crews stay ahead of any issues before they become problems.

CW: How do these systems integrate with the rest of the boat, especially in tight spaces or custom installations?

V: Many tanks, pumps, and plumbing parts are designed to be modular and compact so they can slip into tight spots without choking off flow or hurting reliability.  

Flexible hoses and ready-to-go installation kits really come in handy on older boats or ones with unusual hull shapes. The last thing you want is a system that forces you into a tangle of rerouted lines every time you try to upgrade. The goal is smooth performance with as little fuss as possible, so you spend less time under the boat and more time enjoying the water.

CW: How can sailors extend the life of their plumbing systems, whether for seasonal or bluewater cruising?

V: It really comes down to regular care. Think of it like giving your boat a little daily attention so it doesn’t throw a fit when you need it most. Clean those freshwater tanks often—nothing worse than algae or bacteria throwing a wrench in your water quality. Swap out filters like clockwork to keep everything tasting fresh and running smooth.  

For waste tanks, treatments like TankFresh are a game changer. They help break down waste naturally and keep the stink at bay, which makes life aboard a lot more pleasant for everyone. After each use, flush your hoses with clean water to avoid nasty blockages and that stagnant water funk nobody wants.  

And don’t forget to eyeball your hoses and fittings regularly for leaks or wear. Ventilation systems need some love too—check for blockages and swap out odor filters before they lose their punch. Stick with these simple habits, and your systems will thank you by staying reliable whether you’re crossing oceans or just keeping the boat ready between trips.

Top Tips for a Trouble-Free Water System

Install inspection ports. Add large, accessible ports to fresh and wastewater tanks for easy cleaning and checks.

Use vent filters. A carbon-based “no smell” filter on your tank vent line can eliminate most odors before they enter the cabin.

Add an accumulator tank. This helps smooth out pulsing pressure and reduces pump cycling. It’s especially useful for long-term cruisers.

Choose flexible hoses. Marine-grade hoses with built-in odor barriers make tight routing easier, and they last longer.

Monitor with ultrasonic sensors. Non-contact level monitors prevent overflows, alert you to shortages, and reduce maintenance surprises.

The post Avoid Common Boating Plumbing Pitfalls With These Tips appeared first on Cruising World.

At some point, all of us classic-boat owners are faced with the expensive, time-consuming task of replacing the decks.

Teak is the preferred material, right?

Maybe. Maybe not.

I was faced with this predicament 20 years ago, when the teak decks on Searcher, our Bowman 57 ketch, needed to be replaced. The teak on the working decks was 30 years old and getting paper-thin. Bungs were missing, screwheads were showing, and the seam caulking was coming adrift.

So, I went looking for teak options. One alternative was cheap, plastic linoleum that tried to look like teak. There was real African teak or iroko, greenheart and tigerwood, but these, I thought, were better suited for a patio deck. Costa Rican teak might cost around $160 per square meter. I could have saved that money and instead painted the decks with antislip, but I never liked its look or effectiveness.

In 2004, I replaced the teak on the bow and working decks with Lewmar’s Treadmaster, an aggressively nonslip decking material with a diamond pattern. It comes in 3-by-4-foot sheets, is easily cut with a knife or shears, and is glued down over metal or fiberglass decks with a two-part epoxy. It’s maintenance-free and inexpensive.

A square meter of Treadmaster costs around $200. Teak is about the same, but far more labor-intensive and might require hiring professionals at $90 an hour. Treadmaster, I could install myself.

It took me a month to remove the old teak and fair the fiberglass decks, which were severely damaged during the removal process. I also had to remove and rebed the jib sheet tracks and other deck fittings.

Once the decks were faired, I drew out the pattern on the deck in pencil, cut out pieces of brown wrapping paper to fit, taped them down, and took a look. Nice. I then labeled the templates and the deck, and cut the Treadmaster to match. It took me a week to epoxy the Treadmaster panels in place, weighting them down with sandbags. Done.

Today, all I have to do is hose it off. But don’t fall on it, or you’ll wind up with a diamond imprint on your knees.

Another Option for Teak Decks

Five years later, the teak on the aft deck and the cockpit seats needed replacing. I wasn’t about to use Treadmaster here, with aesthetic considerations and soft behinds to take into account.

I found Stazo marinedeck, a Dutch product that’s available here in the United States. The distributor was in Thomaston, Maine, just 10 miles down the coast. This marine decking is made from compressed cork combined with a binder. It looks like teak (well, close enough) and comes in strips and sheets, all one-third of an inch thick. It does not absorb moisture, is much lighter, is a better insulator, is maintenance-free and is cooler underfoot than teak. After 15 years, all it needed was a light sanding to return to its original condition.

I also found it less expensive than teak, at $400 a square meter. It was easily cut and shaped, and I could do the installation myself. 

For that project, it took me two weeks just to remove the teak and fair the fiberglass subsurface. Cutting and fitting the cork was fun, like putting together a jigsaw puzzle. This part, I did dry: cutting the strips, fitting them in place and numbering each one with corresponding numbers on the deck. 

Then began the messy part: applying tubes of deck caulk in a caulking gun, spreading out the gooey stuff with a serrated trowel over a small section of deck, fitting a few strips in place and applying pressure, scraping up the goo that oozed out, and spreading it over the next section.

When I asked the guys at a nearby yard for suggestions, they told me they used their wives’ old dresses as smocks. “You’ll get this stuff all over yourself,” they warned. I did.

Once the cork was placed and rolled out, it needed a few days to cure. The next step involved filling and troweling the seams. This created a real mess. I began by taping the seams but then gave up, as troweling the caulk just spread the stuff outside the tape. The decks were covered in black goo. 

After a few days, the seam compound had set, and I hit the entire deck with a belt sander. It was a joy to watch the new and now-clean decks emerge from the black mess I’d created.

After 14 years of ownership and three voyages down to and back from the Eastern Caribbean, I sold Searcher in 2014. The boat sat neglected by the buyer in a Belgian marina for eight years after that. Matthi Pieters, a Belgian shipwright, then acquired it, and over the next two years, he rebuilt a significant portion of the boat’s interior, excluding the decks.

Matthi shared his progress with me and other Bowman 57 owners in our Facebook group. He recently sent me photos and this report: “We had to do some work on the cork deck, but now it looks very good again. There were some little gaps in the seams, which we cut out and filled. Water had gotten under some planks in the cockpit, which we removed and re-bedded. After a light sanding, the cork looks new. Some of the Treadmaster decking had become porous and discolored. So, we painted it with a thin epoxy. The edges of some sections of the Treadmaster were lifting. We need to re-epoxy these to fix the edges. Next summer, we’ll repaint the entire deck. The best thing would be to replace the Treadmaster. But to save costs, we try it this way for now.”

I wrote to Matthi recently about a newer product: Treadmaster’s Treadcote, an epoxy paint. It’s Lewmar’s answer to restoring heavily weathered and stained original Treadmaster decking.

Searcher has been renamed We’ll Sea and is now back in the water, with a new engine and rebuilt interior. The jade-green hull is now painted light gray. Matthi and his family sailed We’ll Sea from Belgium to London this past summer, with plans for more ambitious adventures down the road. 

She may have lost her teak, but she’s gained a new lease on life, and she’ll have a few more stories to tell from the other side of the spray.    

Based in Maine, David H. Lyman has owned and sailed four yachts in his more than half a decade of cruising in the Atlantic and Caribbean.

The post Teak Deck Replacement Options for Classic Cruisers appeared first on Cruising World.

Fixing your boat is a big part of the cruising life. After years afloat and more than a few refits in far-flung ports, I’ve learned that sometimes, calling in a professional is the smartest and safest option.

But finding the right help, staying on schedule and ensuring the job gets done right can be just as challenging as the project itself. 

Based on lessons learned the hard way (and a few wins worth repeating), here’s a practical guide to hiring and managing contractors, wherever your cruising plans take you.

Pick the Right Contractor (for You)

Marina and yard directories, as well as online forums, list contractors in each area, but word of mouth is still the best resource. Reach out to your own contacts, as well as the local cruisers’ network, for recommendations. Ask people about their personal experience with a contractor. 

When you connect with a contractor, discuss your needs and desired timeline, and gain an understanding of their capabilities and availability. If your insurance company requires contractors to have certification requirements, does this contractor have them? Does the job require liability insurance, and if so, does the contractor have it? 

Schedule an initial visit on board to outline your requirements and preferences, and to learn about their approach to the job. If you won’t be on-site during the work, how often would you like updates?

If you’re doing a technical refit, confirm that the contractor will include time for training at the end, as well as for follow-up questions in the coming weeks. If it’s an electrical project, ask if the contractor will provide a professionally drawn schematic of the new system. 

Get things in writing whenever possible. And if you’re flexible, it’s worth adjusting your schedule to work with the right person.

Plan Ahead 

We’ve all been there: Something breaks (again) and needs to be fixed (immediately). Hopefully, you can find a contractor to begin work quickly. But if you have a big project on the horizon, plan as far ahead as possible.

If you have a tight timeframe, you can ask your contractor if they can work overtime to accommodate it, but expecting them to do so is unreasonable.

Bigger jobs require multiple workdays or even weeks, and parts that likely need to be sourced ahead of time. Contractors can book up three or four months in advance, especially during hurricane season or cold winters, when boaters prioritize maintenance. Some places in the hurricane belt close up shop altogether for the season.

Secure your slot as early as possible, and consider adjusting your cruising plans to accommodate your contractor’s availability.

Create a Realistic Timeline 

Contractors want to get your job done on time, but boat projects can take longer than expected for a variety of reasons. Maybe a critical part is delayed in transit, or a weather system compromises the sunny, dry days required for the job. When work begins, more problems may come to light that expand the project scope.

These challenges can be navigated with open communication and a flexible schedule. Allow space between the project completion date and the start of your next adventure, so plans aren’t upended if complications arise. Seasoned boaters have a general rule: Whatever the time estimate, add a third.

Effectively Source Parts

Sourcing parts is a critical step in any project. The sooner you secure them, the better. In the islands, some parts can take a month to arrive. If you’re planning to hire a contractor, make it part of the job for him or her to order the parts, so you’ll have a guarantee. For large projects involving rigging, electrical or mechanical systems, the contractor can handle the many variables at play. He or she likely has relationships with suppliers and international brokers to ensure smooth customs clearance and delivery.

Hire a Project Manager for Complex Jobs

If you’re maximizing your time away from the boat by completing multiple projects at once, hire a project manager. Delays aren’t the only reason; another potential problem is confusion about who is responsible for what, and in what order. If your project involves multiple contractors, don’t assume one has authority or control over the others’ schedules.

A project manager, as the primary point of contact, keeps things moving, defuses any issues, and communicates with you regularly. 

Understand the Area’s Culture

Understanding the local culture is also beneficial. If you’re getting work done in the Caribbean, the workday may start and end early to avoid the oppressive afternoon sun. In the French islands, a longer lunch break may be part of the day’s structure.

In many areas outside the United States, contractors communicate through WhatsApp. In more remote places, they may not have access to email or even regular cell service for calls or texts. In those cases, in-person communication is key. 

While some contractors are diversifying their payment methods with apps, some places still operate in a cash-based society. That may require planning on your part if banks are only open a few days a week and have daily limits on cash withdrawals.

Be Respectful

Extending respect both ways is a critical part of any working relationship. If you have a tight timeframe, you can certainly ask your contractor if they can work overtime to accommodate it, but expecting them to do so is unreasonable.

For many cruisers, days run together, but contractors operate on a regular workweek. Save your calls and messages for work hours, and allow for a reasonable response time. They may be upside down in an engine room or hoisted up a mast. If you have multiple questions, ask for a quick call or in-person meeting rather than sending successive messages.

With planning, open communication and some flexibility, your project can come to a successful conclusion with invaluable knowledge gained along the way. And remember: Share your experience with other boaters when they’re in the market for a great contractor.

The post 5 Secrets to Hiring the Best Boat Contractors appeared first on Cruising World.