I’m a displaced New Englander, which means I’ve always measured my sailing seasons not by the calendar, but by the feel of the mornings. In July, it was bare feet on a sun-warmed deck. By October, it was fleece and coffee, watching my breath curl in the still air while Ragtime rocked gently at her mooring. That’s when I knew we were tipping toward haul-out season, when sails come down, Travelifts creak into action, and summer’s stories get tucked away with the dock lines.

This time of year always makes me think of Billy Joel’s “Famous Last Words,” with its imagery of chairs stacked on tabletops and moorings pulled for the season. For me, his music carries the scent of salt, scraped barnacles and diesel at Smith Cove, on Connecticut’s Niantic River, where Ragtime was hauled. It was never glamorous work, but it was grounding. Our annual ritual marked the turning of one chapter and the anticipation of the next.

Not all sailors know this pause. In the tropics, where I’m based now, seasons blur into one another. In the southern hemisphere, spring is just beginning. But no matter the latitude, there’s an often-understated theme among cruisers: The real magic lies less in the miles traveled than in the moments fully realized.

I was reminded of that recently, recalling one summer when our cruising plans stayed close to home. The gearbox needed work, and the busy summer schedule ashore required shorter hops, so we seized a few opportunities to meander along the southern New England shoreline, never more than 40 miles from our slip. We met people that summer who would become some of our closet cruising buddies. Mike and Donna, owners of a plucky Cal 25, traded stories and swigs of sauvignon blanc like currency. Chuck and Marge, whose custom 29-foot double-ender classic yawl was the curiosity of every anchorage, waded for clams in the muddy shallows and always shared their catch. And as our cruising plans quickly adjoined, these friendships, anchored in the simple joy of being out there, became the real souvenirs of the season. We weren’t chasing trade winds or scratching ports of call off a bucket list. We were simply cruising, and that was more than enough.

Presence doesn’t require a passport or a thousand-mile passage. It’s also in the laughter that carries across an anchorage after dark, the muffled clink of plastic wineglasses in the cockpit, the stillness before dawn when the harbor is nothing but shadows and sound. These are the moments that last, the ones you find yourself replaying when the boat’s on the hard and the white stuff starts to fall.

Haul-out season is when I would always find myself holding on to those moments most tightly. As my family and I prepped Ragtime for another long winter’s rest, we would talk about that squall we so courageously navigated, that bluefish we unexpectedly hooked onto—and somehow landed—while readying for a tack change under full sail, the foggy morning coffees in cozy anchorages that felt like they belonged to us alone. These memories become the “last of the souvenirs” Billy Joel sings about in that song—sweet, enduring and carried forward into the off-season.

And then, of course, there’s the practical side. This is when the hands-on sailor in all of us gets busy—winterizing pumps and plumbing, staying ahead of hull and deck maintenance, giving engines and onboard systems the TLC they need to wake up strong in the spring. In this issue, our Hands-On Sailor section is packed with advice from fellow cruisers who’ve been there, done that and learned a few tricks to make the process smoother. 

These projects may not be glamorous, but they’re as much a part of the cruising life as plotting the next waypoint. Because in the end, the close of the season isn’t an ending at all. It’s simply part of the cadence. Boats come out of the water, tools get stowed, and we look to the next chapter, but the magic remains.

The post Seasons Change, Magic of Coastal Cruising Endures appeared first on Cruising World.

Our Stevens 47, Totem, is anchored with 370 feet of chain in 90 feet of water off Majuro Atoll. Around us lie the rusting hulks of cargo ships. We are also amid the coral reefs, aquaculture pens, and a mooring area with a half-dozen cruising boats. Squalls are frequent here, just 7 degrees north of the equator, in the capital of the Marshall Islands. 

Between downpours, my husband, Jamie, and I dinghy in to collect a package at the post office. It’s filled with pure convenience. Two weeks earlier, our portable gas generator wouldn’t start. This isn’t a problem in mostly sunny places, where Totem’s 1,215 watts of solar typically exceed our power needs, but here in the Intertropical Convergence Zone, thick cloud cover blots out the sun for days at a time. 

Without solar power, the suitcase-size generator is essential for charging our batteries. Jamie tried everything to diagnose and fix the issue: carburetor, fuel pump, spark plug, coil, oil sensor. No luck.

There was no suitable replacement available locally, but a shipping agent in Honolulu, for a nominal fee, helped us purchase and deliver a new Honda EU2200i. We might have squeaked by without it, but with more remote islands ahead and a desire to avoid running engine hours just to charge batteries, this felt like a worthy investment. 

Since then, we’ve found the generator’s portability to be vitally useful. At a remote atoll, we once hauled it ashore to power our tools for repairing a rudder on a boat that had struck a coral reef.

Back aboard Totem, Jamie marinized this new generator. A single hour spent adding protective coatings will make future maintenance far easier. Jamie started by removing the exposed fasteners one at a time to apply Tef-Gel to the threads. Once reinstalled, the exposed heads got a coat of CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor or Boeshield T-9.

Next, Jamie marinized the rubber feet that help dampen vibration and sound. Each foot is held on with a bolt—one that tends to rust, stain the deck, and eventually fail. In the past, Jamie tried protective coatings, but none lasted. This time, he filled the inside of the rubber feet with silicone to create a water barrier. If you try this, keep the generator upright if there’s any oil or gas inside.

For the exhaust muffler, Jamie removed the plastic cover and the muffler itself, then sprayed the muffler with high-heat paint for protection. Covering the generator when not in use also helps keep internal components protected from rain and spray.

Once this was all done, and after the engine oil and gas were added, there was one final step before putting the generator into service: installing an hour meter. Ours is activated by engine vibration, giving us a quick visual cue for tracking run time and performing scheduled maintenance. No guesswork. No forgotten log entries. Just change the oil, clean the air filter, and stay on top of maintenance based on real hours run.

With electrical convenience restored, we’re able to top up the batteries and water tanks once again. We’d be catching up on laundry too—but the generator doesn’t keep squalls away, and we’ll need a little more sun to dry our clothes.

The post Why A Marinized Generator is a Must for Cruisers appeared first on Cruising World.

Whether you’re out for a weekend cruise or logging ocean miles on an extended voyage, a reliable and hygienic freshwater system is essential to life afloat. Inconsistent pressure and biofilm buildup are among every boater’s challenges in managing onboard plumbing.

We spoke with the marine systems experts at Vetus to get practical insights into the common problems cruisers encounter, and what to consider when upgrading or maintaining fresh- and wastewater systems.

CW: What are the most common issues sailors face with freshwater systems?

V: Out on the water, two problems tend to pop up again and again: bacterial contamination in tanks and inconsistent water pressure. I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve opened a tank on a boat that had been sitting in the tropics for a while and found that telltale green tinge or a whiff of funk. When tanks sit full for long periods, especially in warm climates, bacteria and algae can take hold. The trouble gets worse when the tanks have no easy way in for cleaning or inspection. If you can, choose tanks with large inspection ports or removable lids; it makes regular maintenance and flushes a quick Saturday morning job instead of a full-on project.  

Water pressure woes, such as pulsing or surging at the tap, are another favorite gremlin. More often than not, an undersized or aging pump is to blame, or a system that is missing an accumulator tank altogether. A properly sized pressurized water system with built-in pressure regulation does more than make the flow steady. It makes the everyday stuff, from dishwashing to taking a shower to rinsing salty gear, feel civilized instead of frustrating.

CW: How have modern freshwater systems evolved to meet the needs of long-distance cruisers?

V: These days, durability and ease of maintenance sit at the heart of good freshwater system design. When you are hundreds of miles from the nearest marina, you cannot count on finding a spare pump or the right fitting. Every part of the system, from tanks and hoses to fittings and pumps, has to be able to handle constant use in a salty, often remote environment.  

The good news is that materials and layouts have come a long way. Tanks are built from tougher, more stable materials, pumps are more reliable, and smarter system designs make it easier for owners to handle upkeep themselves. Features such as inspection ports let you install extra gear like senders or sensors without major surgery. Corrosion-resistant hardware and simplified plumbing runs also mean you spend less time chasing leaks and more time focusing on the passage ahead.

CW: What’s new when it comes to conserving water on passage, especially with marine toilets?

V: Modern marine toilets are designed to use less water per flush without giving up hygiene or comfort. Better bowl shapes, smooth cleanable surfaces, and improved flushing mechanisms all work together to reduce overall water use.  

Wastewater management is another part of the conservation picture. Holding tanks and transfer systems are now built from lighter, stronger materials that resist corrosion and are easier to keep clean. These designs also help limit environmental impact. For the long-distance cruiser, the goal is to enjoy the same comfort and convenience you would have in a marina, while taking a responsible approach to both water use and waste handling at sea.

CW: What should boat owners look for when upgrading a water pressure pump?

V: Put quiet operation, energy efficiency, and the ability to run for long stretches at the top of your list. The latest pumps often come with helpful features such as thermal protection, dry-run capability, and integrated check valves. These reduce common failure points and can make installation simpler.  

If your system doesn’t already have one, add an accumulator tank during the upgrade. This small piece of gear smooths out pulsing at the tap and cuts down on pump cycling. The result is a quieter system that uses less battery power and keeps things running smoothly on long passages.

CW: What tank materials and designs are best for onboard use, and how can sailors ensure good hygiene over time?

V: For freshwater, look for tanks built from food-grade, non-corrosive materials such as linear polyethylene. Seamless construction lowers the risk of leaks, and internal baffles help keep water from sloshing around while you are under sail. For wastewater, similar materials provide the strength you need along with good odor resistance.  

Easy access for inspection and cleaning is essential. Larger ports and modular inspection systems make it simple to check the inside of a tank and flush it when needed. In tight spaces, a flexible tank can be a smart option. These tanks conform to the shape of the hull and can fit into compartments where a rigid tank will not go.  CW: Wastewater systems are one of those chores most boat owners would rather not think about, at least until something smells or clogs. What makes for a setup you can rely on without the drama?

V: It starts with odor control, corrosion resistance, and maintenance you can actually keep up with. Thick-walled synthetic tanks with built-in odor barriers do a great job of keeping smells where they belong. Good ventilation is also important, and an inline carbon filter will stop most odors before they even reach the cabin.  

A few smart design choices help too. Narrower hoses, around 19 mm, can improve flow and cut down on the chance of blockages. Inspection ports make it easier to keep tabs on what is going on inside and to give the system a proper cleaning. Even small upgrades like adding a lid opener for sealed tanks or using a biodegradable treatment such as TankFresh can turn a headache into a system you hardly have to think about, which is the real goal when it comes to wastewater at sea.

CW: Odor control is one of those must-get-right parts of any waste system. How do you keep smells from taking over, and what are some best practices sailors should follow?

V: Ventilation is key. You want large-diameter hose runs that slope downward so waste doesn’t hang around and cause trouble. Good airflow through the tank is essential, and “no smell” filters can trap odors before they even escape the vent line.  

Electric toilets with macerators also help a lot. They break down waste and push it through the system more efficiently, which means less buildup and fewer smells. For best results, check regularly for blockages, make sure hose connections are tight, and rinse tanks often with odor-neutralizing treatments. Keeping on top of these simple steps makes life aboard much more pleasant.

CW: Are there digital monitoring systems that help sailors keep tabs on tank levels and system performance?

V: Absolutely. Noncontact ultrasonic level sensors have really changed the game. They give accurate readings for freshwater, fuel, and black- and gray-water tanks without the wear and tear you get from mechanical senders. You can hook these sensors up to a central display, so you get real-time updates on multiple tanks all at once.  

This kind of setup is a huge help on long passages where managing fresh water and holding tank capacity is critical. Smart monitoring means fewer surprises and lets crews stay ahead of any issues before they become problems.

CW: How do these systems integrate with the rest of the boat, especially in tight spaces or custom installations?

V: Many tanks, pumps, and plumbing parts are designed to be modular and compact so they can slip into tight spots without choking off flow or hurting reliability.  

Flexible hoses and ready-to-go installation kits really come in handy on older boats or ones with unusual hull shapes. The last thing you want is a system that forces you into a tangle of rerouted lines every time you try to upgrade. The goal is smooth performance with as little fuss as possible, so you spend less time under the boat and more time enjoying the water.

CW: How can sailors extend the life of their plumbing systems, whether for seasonal or bluewater cruising?

V: It really comes down to regular care. Think of it like giving your boat a little daily attention so it doesn’t throw a fit when you need it most. Clean those freshwater tanks often—nothing worse than algae or bacteria throwing a wrench in your water quality. Swap out filters like clockwork to keep everything tasting fresh and running smooth.  

For waste tanks, treatments like TankFresh are a game changer. They help break down waste naturally and keep the stink at bay, which makes life aboard a lot more pleasant for everyone. After each use, flush your hoses with clean water to avoid nasty blockages and that stagnant water funk nobody wants.  

And don’t forget to eyeball your hoses and fittings regularly for leaks or wear. Ventilation systems need some love too—check for blockages and swap out odor filters before they lose their punch. Stick with these simple habits, and your systems will thank you by staying reliable whether you’re crossing oceans or just keeping the boat ready between trips.

Top Tips for a Trouble-Free Water System

Install inspection ports. Add large, accessible ports to fresh and wastewater tanks for easy cleaning and checks.

Use vent filters. A carbon-based “no smell” filter on your tank vent line can eliminate most odors before they enter the cabin.

Add an accumulator tank. This helps smooth out pulsing pressure and reduces pump cycling. It’s especially useful for long-term cruisers.

Choose flexible hoses. Marine-grade hoses with built-in odor barriers make tight routing easier, and they last longer.

Monitor with ultrasonic sensors. Non-contact level monitors prevent overflows, alert you to shortages, and reduce maintenance surprises.

The post Avoid Common Boating Plumbing Pitfalls With These Tips appeared first on Cruising World.

Fixing your boat is a big part of the cruising life. After years afloat and more than a few refits in far-flung ports, I’ve learned that sometimes, calling in a professional is the smartest and safest option.

But finding the right help, staying on schedule and ensuring the job gets done right can be just as challenging as the project itself. 

Based on lessons learned the hard way (and a few wins worth repeating), here’s a practical guide to hiring and managing contractors, wherever your cruising plans take you.

Pick the Right Contractor (for You)

Marina and yard directories, as well as online forums, list contractors in each area, but word of mouth is still the best resource. Reach out to your own contacts, as well as the local cruisers’ network, for recommendations. Ask people about their personal experience with a contractor. 

When you connect with a contractor, discuss your needs and desired timeline, and gain an understanding of their capabilities and availability. If your insurance company requires contractors to have certification requirements, does this contractor have them? Does the job require liability insurance, and if so, does the contractor have it? 

Schedule an initial visit on board to outline your requirements and preferences, and to learn about their approach to the job. If you won’t be on-site during the work, how often would you like updates?

If you’re doing a technical refit, confirm that the contractor will include time for training at the end, as well as for follow-up questions in the coming weeks. If it’s an electrical project, ask if the contractor will provide a professionally drawn schematic of the new system. 

Get things in writing whenever possible. And if you’re flexible, it’s worth adjusting your schedule to work with the right person.

Plan Ahead 

We’ve all been there: Something breaks (again) and needs to be fixed (immediately). Hopefully, you can find a contractor to begin work quickly. But if you have a big project on the horizon, plan as far ahead as possible.

If you have a tight timeframe, you can ask your contractor if they can work overtime to accommodate it, but expecting them to do so is unreasonable.

Bigger jobs require multiple workdays or even weeks, and parts that likely need to be sourced ahead of time. Contractors can book up three or four months in advance, especially during hurricane season or cold winters, when boaters prioritize maintenance. Some places in the hurricane belt close up shop altogether for the season.

Secure your slot as early as possible, and consider adjusting your cruising plans to accommodate your contractor’s availability.

Create a Realistic Timeline 

Contractors want to get your job done on time, but boat projects can take longer than expected for a variety of reasons. Maybe a critical part is delayed in transit, or a weather system compromises the sunny, dry days required for the job. When work begins, more problems may come to light that expand the project scope.

These challenges can be navigated with open communication and a flexible schedule. Allow space between the project completion date and the start of your next adventure, so plans aren’t upended if complications arise. Seasoned boaters have a general rule: Whatever the time estimate, add a third.

Effectively Source Parts

Sourcing parts is a critical step in any project. The sooner you secure them, the better. In the islands, some parts can take a month to arrive. If you’re planning to hire a contractor, make it part of the job for him or her to order the parts, so you’ll have a guarantee. For large projects involving rigging, electrical or mechanical systems, the contractor can handle the many variables at play. He or she likely has relationships with suppliers and international brokers to ensure smooth customs clearance and delivery.

Hire a Project Manager for Complex Jobs

If you’re maximizing your time away from the boat by completing multiple projects at once, hire a project manager. Delays aren’t the only reason; another potential problem is confusion about who is responsible for what, and in what order. If your project involves multiple contractors, don’t assume one has authority or control over the others’ schedules.

A project manager, as the primary point of contact, keeps things moving, defuses any issues, and communicates with you regularly. 

Understand the Area’s Culture

Understanding the local culture is also beneficial. If you’re getting work done in the Caribbean, the workday may start and end early to avoid the oppressive afternoon sun. In the French islands, a longer lunch break may be part of the day’s structure.

In many areas outside the United States, contractors communicate through WhatsApp. In more remote places, they may not have access to email or even regular cell service for calls or texts. In those cases, in-person communication is key. 

While some contractors are diversifying their payment methods with apps, some places still operate in a cash-based society. That may require planning on your part if banks are only open a few days a week and have daily limits on cash withdrawals.

Be Respectful

Extending respect both ways is a critical part of any working relationship. If you have a tight timeframe, you can certainly ask your contractor if they can work overtime to accommodate it, but expecting them to do so is unreasonable.

For many cruisers, days run together, but contractors operate on a regular workweek. Save your calls and messages for work hours, and allow for a reasonable response time. They may be upside down in an engine room or hoisted up a mast. If you have multiple questions, ask for a quick call or in-person meeting rather than sending successive messages.

With planning, open communication and some flexibility, your project can come to a successful conclusion with invaluable knowledge gained along the way. And remember: Share your experience with other boaters when they’re in the market for a great contractor.

The post 5 Secrets to Hiring the Best Boat Contractors appeared first on Cruising World.

Haulouts are a necessary evil. They are the only time a boat owner can perform a thorough inspection of the hull, rudder and underwater hardware, as well as apply bottom paint and perform other below-the-­waterline maintenance.  

There are several ways to make the most of this process. Here are a few tips.

Keep the Water Out

Watertight integrity rises above all other priorities. The weakest links in this chain are hull fittings and seacocks. That’s why it’s important to use time on the hard to inspect each one.  

If they are metallic, then scrape off some paint. The metal color should look like copper. While the telltale green shade of verdigris is not harmful, any sign of a pinkish hue is cause for concern. Pink indicates de-zincification. It means the metal is brass, which contains zinc, rather than bronze, which does not. The former is definitely not suitable for use in seawater.  

Work all the seacocks, and replace any that are seized. Those that are stiff can often be freed with exercise and a little penetrating oil. Most modern ball-type seacocks use Teflon or other synthetic seals, which don’t need lubrication, however, those that have drain plugs can usually accept Zerk fittings, which allow the void around the ball to be filled with grease, making movement easier.

Stay On Course

Closely inspect the rudder for damage, and remember to look at the very bottom surface. Many rudders “leak” water while hauled. This might not be cause for concern. However, if the liquid is rust-colored, then water may have penetrated to the rudder’s internal metallic support structure. That structure might be stainless steel or a combination of stainless and mild steel (the latter is undesirable, but both can suffer). If corrosion is present, surgery might be necessary to avoid a parting of the ways between the rudder stock and blade—and the resultant loss of steering or the rudder altogether.  

If the rudder is skeg hung, then check the condition of the gudgeon, the stationary support for the rudder’s lower pivot point, called the pintle. It’s normal to have a small amount of lateral play here, but too much can indicate wear or damage. Fiberglass around the pintle hardware should be free of anything other than minor gelcoat surface cracks.

With spade rudders (those that are not supported at the bottom), grab the lowest portion and push-pull it to port and starboard. A small amount of play is normal where the rudder stock enters the rudder log, tube and bearing that provide support at the hull interface. Excessive movement can indicate wear and the potential need to replace the bearing. Both rudder types should otherwise move freely to their stops without binding.  

Keel and Stub

Have a close look at the keel, especially if it is externally ballasted. Trouble can lurk in the interface between the ballast and hull, which might be direct or might rely on a fiberglass protrusion called the stub. It’s not unusual to see some water leaking from this interface, but if it is rusty in color, it indicates corrosion to keel fasteners, which are typically made from a stainless alloy.  

How much corrosion has occurred is impossible to know without separating the keel from the hull, but there have been a few high-profile cases of keel loss, often with fatalities, so better safe than sorry.

Dropping an external ballast keel is no small undertaking, but for a skilled yard, it should be fairly routine. If the keel is externally ballasted and it is cast iron, the integrity of the coating is critical. Any breach will lead to rust, which will spread. Correction requires cleaning, grinding to bright metal, and then coating with an epoxy primer rather than simply applying antifoulant.

For all keels, check the bottom for grounding damage. If the keel is internally ballasted, then severe grounding damage can allow water to reach the ballast. This is problematic for lead ballast and especially concerning for iron ballast, which will rust and expand, damaging the fiberglass structure. Better to catch this problem early. —Steve D’Antonio 

Steve D’Antonio offers services for boat owners and buyers through Steve D’Antonio Marine Consulting.

The post After the Haulout: First Things First appeared first on Cruising World.

There’s an art to ending the season. A good boatyard with a capable crew smooths the transition from sea to land.

Every skipper who faces the fall haulout ritual can benefit from a glimpse at how other yards handle sailboats. Most yards utilize Travelifts and U-shaped lift piers, but the way that a crew maneuvers a sailboat into the lift slings, hauls, and blocks can add valuable insight. There are subtleties in the way that the lift operator snugs up slack in the slings and smoothly controls the powerful hydraulic winches. Attention to detail reveals competency. 

Equipment condition is important too. Beware of rusty lifting cables, frayed slings, and tires that show signs of sun rot and sidewall damage. 

And, as one old salt put it, “Even in the best of yards, you don’t want your boat to be the biggest boat that the yard has ever hauled.” 

There are ways to expedite the prehaul boat preparation. Remove the sails, dodger, and Bimini top, and offload provisions and gear for the winter. It’s usually a lot easier to do this dockside rather than after the haulout. Also make sure the holding tank has been pumped out, the ­knotmeter transducer is retracted, and the yard manager or lift operator has an underwater profile picture or drawing of your boat. 

Some yards allow owners to pilot their boats into the Travelift slip, while others don’t. In either case, boathandling skills are tested, and good and bad habits stand out. For example, most lift operators make good use of long boat hooks. They use them to tug on a rail or cleat. But some also reach for lifeline stanchions when a big pull is needed to coax the boat sideways. Even worse is when a lift operator uses an upper shroud to stop the boat’s forward motion. Skilled sailboat handlers can nudge a vessel into the Travelift slip without such rigging torment. 

If you’re engaged in a DIY approach to the lift slip, you must make sure that the boat is ready to be hoisted. Often a headstay or backstay needs to be disconnected at the deck. If so, cinch up a halyard and set running backstays to keep the mast stabilized. ­Double-check to make sure that the lift operator and sling crew know where your boat’s vulnerable folding or feathering prop resides. 

Strap locations are critical. Catching the sling on a prop blade is a costly mistake, and it’s the reason why most experienced lift operators appreciate that profile picture of the boat’s underbody. Also, they often use a long pole or boat hook as a probe to make sure there’s plenty of prop-to-sling separation. The two slings are connected with a line to prevent slippage, and are padded or sleeved where the webbing touches the topsides. 

Shallow Travelift piers and deep-draft vessels are a challenge. A skilled crew uses the upper portion of a rising tide to haul deeper-draft vessels, with a plan to finish during the last part of the flooding. This extra insurance often comes in handy. Note the high-water time on the day you go, and see how the yard crew handles scheduling. 

Good timing is just as essential during the ebbing side of the tidal cycle. This is one reason why many yards add a hydraulic trailer to the mix. Hauled boats can be placed in a trailer to be moved, pressure-­washed and delivered to the blocking location while the Travelift is free to haul the next boat. 

Less common are crane-hoist haulouts and traditional marine railways that follow the slope of the bottom during the transition from water to land. With crane hoists, it’s important that the cable is attached to a steel framework or spreader bars to keep the slings from overcompressing the sheer. Marine railways use a cradle fit to the shape of a specific hull. It’s secured to a railway carriage that’s run into the water, where the vessel powers, or is pushed, into the cradle. These methods are viable but slower.

The second task on the annual haulout list is bottom-cleaning effort. Over the years, this work has become more efficient and environmentally friendly. Residue from biological growth and bottom paint must be retained, preventing contaminants from washing back into the bay. Most antifoulant significantly reduces growth. High-pressure water blasting can help prep the surface for next season’s bottom paint.

Finally, the boat is moved to its ­designated space, in a growing number of cases by a boat trailer with a hydraulically raised and lowered frame and padded arms. Boatyards benefit from these trailers because hauled vessels can be placed ­closer together. DIY owners often prefer yards where space between boats is ­greater, leaving more room to tackle projects.

Blocking up sailboats, especially with masts stepped, is an art unto itself. Part of the challenge stems from the varied underbody shapes and draft differences among modern sailboats. In addition, ­many boatyard storage areas are not paved—sometimes not even gravel-­coated. These issues are exacerbated when winter storms besiege the blocked-up fleet. Many owners look for better yards in less-­populated areas where land is less ­expensive and storage is more available. 

The best yards don’t skimp on screw jack stands. They carefully block each sailboat’s keel and run chains between port and starboard opposing stands. Each jack stand is aligned so that the pad against the hull and the supporting column of the stand are as perpendicular as possible. 

When blocking is done on unpaved surfaces, especially in poor drainage areas, plywood pads are used under each tubular foot. In most cases, yard crews check stand tension regularly during the season, and specifically before major forecast weather.

Before signing a haul-store-launch contract, make sure you are aware of the date you must be ready to launch. Yards usually follow a first-out, last-in and ­last-in, first-out format, somewhat like sardine packing.

The post Keys to a Successful Haulout appeared first on Cruising World.

I was waiting for my husband, Steve, to fly back to the Philippines, where I was overseeing a few boat projects. All that was left was to tidy up some details and slap on a few coats of antifouling. We were a couple of weeks away from relaunching Kate, our Newport 41, when something very unexpected happened. The world went into lockdown in an ­attempt to control a pandemic.

With international flights grounded, land transportation stopped and all ­marine traffic prohibited, I suddenly found myself stranded in a foreign ­country. Not only that, I was high and dry and all alone in a boatyard. No ­husband, no other cruisers, and only a skeleton staff charged with keeping an eye on things at the yard.

I will admit that the first few weeks were a little overwhelming. With so many unknowns, it was hard to plan, let alone think straight. As the weeks turned into months, I remembered all the lessons that sailing had taught me over the years—most ­important, that even the worst storms eventually ease, and conditions always improve. So I got on with the job of making life on the hard a little easier. Here are a few tips from our (very) extended haul out.

Safety First: Getting on and off a vessel up on jack stands or in a cradle is awkward at best, and sometimes downright dangerous. Make sure the ladder or scaffolding is properly assembled, in good condition and secured in place

Know Your Limits: I love challenging myself, but I also know that I can’t do everything. Whether it’s hiring a pro to do a job that is beyond your skills or making sure you take a rest day, it’s important to know and respect your personal limits. Remember, knowing when to stop is not the same as quitting.

Plan Ahead: Have the supplies to ­complete all the jobs on the list, enough food to keep the crew fed, and a contingency plan for when things don’t work out quite the way you expected. Plan a yard period like you would a long passage: ­meticulously but with a fair amount of wiggle room. Make sure to budget a little extra time and money, just in case.

Make Yourself Comfortable: Time in the boatyard is always hot, dirty and chaotic. Making sure you have a few modern conveniences means you’ll be just a little bit more comfortable. Everyone’s comfort threshold is different, but even the basics of a usable sink on board and access to a clean bathroom ashore will make the days a little easier. If there are major interior projects being done, consider arranging for accommodations ashore so you don’t have to live in and around the mess.

Keep Calm and Sail On: When it comes to boatyards, problems and delays are inevitable. Some situations are definitely more challenging than others—believe me, I know. However, getting overly angry or upset when things go wrong won’t make the troubles go away; it will just leave you feeling miserable. Take a deep breath, stay calm, and find the rational solution to the problem.

Daily Detox: It is important to take a few minutes every day to shift your focus and regroup, whether it be savoring a quiet coffee before digging in to the job list, going for a jog after a hard day’s work or turning off social media for an hour in the evening. Taking care of your mental health is especially important during trying times.

The post Tips for Making Boatyard Life Better appeared first on Cruising World.

The tyranny of the sock has returned to our crew. We have road tripped from Mexico back to the Pacific Northwest, and it is cold! Family pulled us back; we’ll spend most of the month of November back on Bainbridge Island with my father. Our travels were unfettered, and border crossing easy. We had over a thousand road miles to contemplate this freedom, as border crossing is complicated by COVID in so much of the world.

Getting into the USA

During October, we drove north to Phoenix twice from where Totem is hauled at the Cabrales Boatyard in Puerto Peñasco. Clearance (for US passport holders) is a breeze; never more than a few minutes wait at the Sonoyta/Lukeville border. CPB checks passports, has a couple of questions about our home and our plans, then waves us through.

What about boats: can they get in as easily? Not a single boat we know of has been turned away. Officially, boats arriving from specific COVID hotspots and Schengen (most EU) countries are barred from arrival. But that’s arriving from those countries, vs vessel flagged / crew being nationals of those countries. But homework is required for non-US-flagged boats, because some ports (e.g., Miami) have reportedly not issued cruising permits. US border restrictions are not uniformly applied on land or sea.

Getting back to Mexico

Driving over the border is even simpler. This corner of Sonora where Totem is parked is a tourist zone, so unless we get the unlucky red light at the border—meaning, pull over for a customs inspection—we drive right through with a wave to the official. No passport checks. No questions. Nothing. ¡Bienvenido a México! Will it be as easy later in November, when we return? One hopes. As a precaution, we have the port captain’s clearance and Totem’s vessel documentation; I don’t think we’ll need it.

For boats, Mexico has never closed to cruising arrivals at any time during the pandemic. Repeat: Mexico has never closed to arriving boats during the pandemic. For some reason, there is misconception swirling around this—at least three people in the last few weeks expressed their perception that boats could not enter Mexico. WRONG, and not just now, but at any time so far this year.

On the road

The road trip was a rush north in some ways: the raisons d’être for our visit is to be with my dad for surgery, and spend time with him. When the date was moved up, so was our travel timeline. The procedure is minor, but what’s minor when you’re 85? The time with him is because we can: in the current pandemic environment, I don’t feel comfortable flying. Not for my father (who would love to return to visit us in La Cruz again), not for us.

For our teen daughters, it’s first time they’ve traveled to spend time in the States since… I have to think about it, for a minute. While Jamie and I have had a few trips, it’s been about two years for them. Culture shock is real. “Everyone is going so fast!” Well, our life is definitely one of slow travel and slow mode. Our reverse culture shock sinks in, tempered by rolling landscape, spiked with occasional hostility—like the gas station attendant in Oregon telling a coworker who upset a customer she “should have coughed on them.” We found another gas station.

COVID-era road tripping

Safety: check. My dad’s age and health mean we have to be careful not to bring a virus to his doorstep. Forced by our return to civilization in Peñasco to think through precautions and risk mitigation, we had a good warmup for traveling. In the car with a duffle of clothes and tote bags of gear was a trug for tools of the COVID trip: gloves, KN95 masks, hand sanitizer, alcohol spray, wipes.

Food: check. We anticipated avoiding restaurants. Just enough snacks (trail mix in bulk, wasabi peas). Water bottles. A bag of apples and loaves of sliced bread with jars of jam and peanut butter would make meals on the go. Except… I forgot a utensil for the spreads. FAIL! Lunch on day one was Cheetos and apples instead, but the kind of in appropriate treat to appreciate? And then there was the irresistible (for me) lure of In-n-Out burger’s drive-thru…

Entertainment: check. Mairen and Siobhan were in charge of the mixtape and podcasts. We sank into the gory history of royals in Noble Blood, paired that with a musical about Henry VIII’s wives, and listened to a bare minimum of news while the scenery rolled by.

Nature’s call: check. This is a tad more complicated for our women passengers, so to the horror (but function) of our daughters I bought a “urinary device for women” called pStyle for easy, standing relief. Recommended by a friend… and a winner. I’m entirely uninterested in braving public restrooms right now.

Friends and touring

As soon as plans to road trip north were made, Jamie and I saw this as an opportunity to visit our mentor. Jim Jessie lives aboard in Alameda, CA, and we haven’t seen Jimmy since he and his late wife Diana visited Totem in Zihuatenejo…more than TEN years ago. Much too long! Jamie first met them aboard their Lapworth 48 Nalu IV on the docks of Dubrovnik, then Yugoslavia, in 1986…the beginning of a long friendship. Their invaluable support and guidance inspire the coaching work we do today.

I grew up in a few localities, but San Francisco and the northern California landscape are cemented as my homeplace. The girls don’t remember much from when we passed through on Totem in 2008; this was a priceless opportunity to share some history. After bidding farewell to Jim, we came over the Bay Bridge (whoa, it’s DIFFERENT now!) into the city. Admiring the skyline and bay views on our way to Yerba Buena island, I began my family brainwashing program: “this is the most beautiful city in the world!” Winding through neighborhoods, down Lombard’s hairpin curves, around the corner at the bottom to drive by my childhood home on Chestnut Street. I wanted to ring the doorbell, but it wasn’t the time, and not just because of the tears in my eyes! I had countless flashes of nostalgia: where I went to my first movie, a childhood friend’s home, streets and neighborhoods that color the quilt of my early life.

My only regret was that we couldn’t spend more time, to check in and find a way to connect with old friends. Fortunate to intersect with a few. Possibly on the way south? Our plans are indefinite.

Such are COVID era plans: indefinite. Our border crossings were simple, and this seems likely to continue between the USA and Mexico. Our goal to return to the South Pacific remains, but for 2021… it’s indefinite. French Polynesia remains accessible to boats, and Fiji has opened, but… then what?

Australia and New Zealand shut their doors hard. Heading to Hawaii for hurricane season is an option, but an unattractive one to us. Plenty can change between now and the optimal window to depart next spring, but with cases in French Poly taking off again and winter virus trends more likely to be worse instead of better (this from your resident optimist), we think the South Pac is off the menu for next year.

NEXT WEEKEND

Join us for TOTEM TALKS: the Shipyard Checklist. Next Saturday’s livestream talks about what we’re doing… and not, and how to avoid hardstand heartache! 10am Pacific / 1pm Eastern; Register here.

NOVEMBER 15

Behan presents the Women’s Sailing Seminar keynote, on the last of three days of classes and interactive sessions; there’s something for every level of sailing experience. Join the full event (Nov 13-15)!  Details here.

The post Sailing Totem: Where Border Crossing is Easy appeared first on Cruising World.

Leaving Puerto Peñasco’s harbor in our wake last December, I really expected it would be years—many years!—before we returned. But, 2020! Now we’re preparing to haul out at Cabrales Boatyard again. The hurricane-safe location offers us a chance to work on some minor projects for a couple of weeks, while readily accessing goods from the USA. Besides, yard manager Salvador and his wife Lara have a new baby girl that I want to meet! From a safe physical distance, of course (oh, that’s going to be hard! Not much beats fresh baby snuggles).

Meanwhile, other boats around us have started talking about plans to haul out there also. Some are ready for a break on land. Others have work that’s easier and more affordable to do at Cabrales compared to further south in Mexico. This is our third time hauling at Cabrales and sixth time hauling Totem, which leaves us with notes to share.

Local conditions

One of the reasons we like going up to Puerto Peñasco is—no hurricanes! There are gales though. Either way, know what harsh conditions affect the area and prepare as if they are certain to come. Whether big winds and reducing windage and perhaps extra jackstands makes sense. Big rain and you should make sure your cockpit scupper can’t clog. Or freezing temps – which are so far from Puerto Peñasco we’re not going to touch here!

Preparing the Engine

Initial engine preparation can be done while you’re still in the water, then a freshwater flush is all that’s left once you’re on the hardstand.

• Engine service: Check engine manufacturer service intervals. Is it at or near hours for a bigger service job? It’s nice to go back in the water with the engine in top condition.
  
• Basic maintenance: Unless recently changed, it’s best to replace consumables: engine oil, oil filter, transmission oil, impeller, alternator belt (if any wear), and fuel filters. Flush and replace the coolant, too.
  
• Fresh water flush: Seawater cooling system is very corrosive. Flushing with fresh water is easy is good for longevity.
  
• Remove the raw water hose from the seacock, then put into a 5-gallon bucket filled with fresh water.  Have a land supplied water hose led to the bucket and ready to turn on.
  
• Start the engine and turn on hose, adjusting the flow rate to keep the bucket nearly full.
  
• Run for 5 to 10 minutes. When nearing completion, add a gallon of white vinegar to the bucket and turn off the hose; let this vinegar solution get pulled into the engine. Acetic acid in the vinegar dissolves some accumulated minerals inside.
  
• Make sure the engine goes off BEFORE the bucket empties!
  

Lightening the Load

Totem has 605 square feet of bottom and weighs in around 38,000 lbs. That’s a lot of mass taken almost entirely by the keel, balanced by jack stands. Emptying tanks and offloading anchor gear provides nearly 10% weight savings.

• Diesel tanks: Some favor full tanks for storing; less room for moisture that can enable diesel bug growth. We prefer to treat diesel with biocide (we’ve used BioborJF) and run the fuel down in the tank for less weight aboard. Diesel weighs about 7 lbs/gallon; big tanks mean big weight on the hull. One scenario when weight is a benefit is catamarans hauled out in high hurricane-risk areas.
  
• Water tanks: If not living aboard, then empty water tanks (excepting catamarans as above). When near empty add vinegar to the tank and run through fresh water system, including hot water tank to prevent growth.
  
• Holding tanks: Empty! Flush toilets with a water and white vinegar mix to prevent the swamp monster from eating your boat.
  
• Anchors and chain: We offload these high mass items to a pallet below Totem. She sighs when 450′ of chain and three anchors reach the ground.
  

Sails and Rigging

• Sails: If you’ll be away for an extended period, sails should come down for storage in a dry place out of the elements. Less sun and wind exposure equals longer life. For shorter periods, it’s more of a judgement call based on the risk of high winds or rodents/birds taking up residence.
  
• Standing rigging: Ease rig tension.
  
• Wash turnbuckles with fresh water
  
• Mark threads so you know how to tune
  
• Remove cotter pins and back off tension until at slight-tension (not sloppy), then put cotter pins in place
  
• Shut down the boom motel: birds love to live inside the boom. Stuff rags in the ends to prevent.
  

Preparing the Exterior

Puerto Peñasco is dusty! When the wind is up, fine dust reaches winch innards, sheave pins and other moving parts that don’t benefit from grit. Boats left for long-term storage can be shrink-wrapped to help protect them from the sand that blows in.

A common cover technique is aluminum foil wrap. In hot dry places like Puerto Peñasco the foil bonded to what it covered. Now we start with a wrap in thin cloth, then foil, and finish with duct tape to ensure it stays in place.

• Deck hardware: Start with a good deck wash to remove salt and dirt. Then cover moving parts: winches, clutches, blocks, and plastic hardware. Cover as much as possible for dirt and UV protection.
  
• Outside electronics: Cover! Including GPS and other more easily accessible antennas.
  
• Wind turbine: secure the blade from spinning and cover the unit to protect from dirt and UV.
  
• Rudder: rudders are a sealed piece, and when stored in a hot environment, the interior may expand to the extent that it causes damage—cracks that can lead to water intrusion. We don’t see these protected often, but it’s a good idea (see wrap on Kenta Anae, below).
  
• Everything else: In high-risk hurricane areas, assess every piece of hardware and every item affixed to the boat in terms of possible windage and consider removing them.

Power/ Electrical System

When we were in Malaysia a boat down the dock had a neighbor minding it while the owner was away for months. One day she asked for help dealing with a strong odor: Jamie cracked the sliding doors and nearly got smoked out. The batteries had boiled off their water, were super-hot and bulging. After carefully venting hydrogen sulfide gas from the cabin, he disconnected the batteries. A potential disaster, averted.

• Shore power: If not living aboard, we disconnect shore power that could have a power loss or spike that upsets onboard systems.
  
• Boat batteries: Our solar panels keep the batteries topped up. We have AGM batteries (for now) that don’t require water or other maintenance. Do know your batteries’ maintenance needs? Arrange with the boatyard or a cruiser to manage in your absence if required.
  
• Other batteries: The myriad of electronics we own often have batteries that may be best stored in a cooler environment. Lithium batteries don’t love high heat, and a closed-up boat in Mexican summer can exceed 160F, which may cause damage. Remove batteries from devices and store in a cooler spot if possible, and expect to replace.
  

Preparing the Interior

Puerto Peñasco is very dry during summer months. When Totem was going to be closed up tight during a three-month absence in 2018, we added about 10 gallons of fresh water into the bilge (with a cup of white vinegar to prevent growth). We were concerned that the dryness would shrink cabin sole planks and other wood parts. We worried the water would make it humid enough to cause other issues, but we tried anyway. On return we found most water evaporated, the wood fine, and no mildew problem.

• Leave the interior clean. Returning to a dirty boat is no fun!
  
• Wiping all surfaces with a vinegar/water solution from a spray bottle (or straight vinegar on a rag) kills the mold spores you don’t see yet to prevent them from blooming in your absence.
  
• Fine sand and dust that can cover the deck hardware, may get inside—even in closed-up boats. Consider covering harder-to-clean items like books and settee cushions with sheets.
  
• We left clothes in lockers and aired them out on return. Others swear by packing them in plastic bags, but be certain they are 100% bone dry first. An old school suggestion is to throw a dryer sheet in the bags but I find them toxic with a “fragrance” that makes me sneeze!
  
• Just before leaving the boat, we open all lockers and bilge access covers to improve air circulation.

Preventing Vermin

Cockroaches and rats love boatyards! We’ve gotten a rat in nearly every boatyard except Cabrales.  Start by assuming their presence and take action to avoid some of the rat stories that are to icky to include here.

• Access: we don’t have an airtight boat (solar powered dorades fans keep turning!), and don’t want to—that doesn’t mean there’s a welcome mat out.
  
• Ports, hatches, and companionway are closed up.
  
• Bronze wool (steel wool rusts) or sponges block vents and through-hulls that may enable a pathway in otherwise.
  
• Rats are amazing climbers. Prior to leaving get rid of the ladder; and an inverted funnel around a power cord will dissuade any climbers (they may laugh at this attempt!).
  

• Temptations: bugs and rodents have a single focus: food. Remove perishables and as best you can, non-perishables (see below), so as not to lure any critters to come aboard or linger.
  
• Deterrent measures: we put cockroach bait/poison in places they are likely to lurk. In Mexico, I buy a boric acid paste and smear it in suspect areas (caution if there are young kids or pets aboard). Sprinkling straight-up boric acid powder can do the same; best mixed with something to sweeten it to bug-yummy goodness (powdered sugar to stay powdery, sweetened condensed milk if you’d like a paste).
  

Heat Mitigation

We’ve recorded deck temperatures at 160°F! Below deck, the boat is literally an oven.

• Deck covers: Shading makes a big difference, but keep weather conditions in mind. High UV degrades plastic tarps in a couple months; and a wind event can flog them to shreds. We bought rolls of inexpensive UV shade material, with 80% sunblock to shade and allow airflow. Secure low and tight over lifelines and supporting lines like a “ridgepole” between mast and the bow.
  
• Ventilation: Stagnant air makes it hotter below and more likely enable mildew and mold growth. Some boats are tighter than others and may need dessicating agents like Damp-Rid inside, even in the dry heat. Totem’s solar vents keep turning over air and help prevent mildew below.
  
• Air conditioning: In extreme heat, consider installing a household air conditioner in a hatch or the companionway, and plugged in to a land-based power source. When we did this in Peñasco, it didn’t make it cozy and cool below, but it did take the edge off extreme heat.
  

Packing Out

• Remove all foodstuff: Almost. Perishables of course—but even most non-perishables. First, because ANY food is a lure for vermin. Second, because enclosed conditions below can be tough on even long-life goods. In Peñasco’s extreme summertime heat canned food could explode, then rot until cleaned week (months?) later.
  
• Packaged foods can be stored a larger sealed container or tub. I’d go as far as taping seams on a heavy-duty tub with a gasketed lid.
  
• Close propane tank valves.
  
• Gas in jerry cans doesn’t store well and is hazardous. Consider giving it to launching cruiser or local for the karma win!
  

Preparing for In-water vs. Hauling

The focus here is dry storage (and warm locations), but storing a boat in-water is sometimes a preferable option. In areas of extreme heat, remaining in-water is gentler on the boat than hot, hot air. In the summer of 2009, we stored Totem for about three months at a berth in San Carlos, Mexico. On the mainland side of Mexico, this area remains prone to hurricane risk.

Our preparations to keep Totem safe in-water were twofold:

• Reducing windage: sails off and below, along with just about everything not permanently attached to the deck (including our kayak)
  
• Securing well: we macraméd Kenta to the dock structure

Remnants of Hurricane Jimena passed over the area with some bluster and epic rainfall, but Totem did perfectly fine in her slip. Ironically, a number of boats on shore were washed off jackstands due to flooding.

The post Preparing a Boat For Haul Out appeared first on Cruising World.

When my husband, Ken, and I sailed up Guatemala’s Rio Dulce, we never dreamed that our Morgan 38, Mary T, would reside there so long in our absence. Twenty miles inland, at the head of the river, the town of Fronteras (also known as Rio Dulce) is one of the finest hurricane holes in the Caribbean. It’s beautiful, inexpensive, the people are nice, and you can get almost every kind of boat work completed there. It’s one of those “stuck places,” where many cruisers end their sailing days. That, however, was not our plan.

Our plan was to leave the boat for the hurricane season, go back to the States for a visit, and return in October. What do they say about boats and schedules? That they’re mutually exclusive? October rolled around, and family needs trumped sailing.

We kept in touch with the marina in Rio Dulce via email and were assured that all was well with Mary T. The employees were airing her out on a regular basis, keeping her hull and decks clean, and they varnished the brightwork and cabin sole as requested.

The following summer—now a year after we had left the boat in Guatemala—we were able to return. We thought that if weather permitted and the boat was in good shape, we’d sail her back to Florida. The boat was in decent shape, and the varnish work was nicely done. And we encountered only fairly minor problems: All the lines were filthy and stiff, the chart plotter was fried, and everything that was made of rubber, including parts of the dinghy, were disintegrating. Zippers, tools, and most things made of metal were rusty or corroded.

A medical setback meant we had only five weeks to get the boat ready, provision, do a little shakedown sail, and hope for a good weather window to Florida—a tight schedule, to be sure. The daily torrential thunderstorms were not particularly encouraging.

Given all of these factors, we decided it was too tight and would be more prudent to leave the boat again and return to Guatemala at a later date.

Not knowing exactly when our next opportunity to return would come, we should have been more thoughtful about our next moves. We did a few things right. We ­purchased a giant piece of an old vinyl billboard sign, cut it to size, and punched grommets in it to create a tarp to shelter the boat from the blistering sun. It’s a popular method in Rio Dulce and quite a bit cheaper than hiring a professional to fabricate a canvas cover. We also hoisted up sacrificial lines to protect our halyards from the elements, and took the batteries out of small electronic devices and flashlights.

Everything else we did, however, was wrong. Here are some of our lessons learned:

Mistake No. 1: Keeping all seacocks open

We asked the marina owner if we should close the seacocks. We thought if his people were cleaning the boat and running water, they might like the seacocks open. He said no problem, we could leave them open. Huge mistake. A year and a half after we’d left the boat, we received an email that on Christmas Day, Mary T had taken on nearly a foot of water above the floorboards because a plastic fitting in the head had broken.

Water came rushing in through the open seacock, and the bilge pump and high-water alarm quit working because the ­batteries had died. Fortunately, somebody noticed, and the marina employees pumped out the water before it could get any worse.

If you do plan to close the seacocks before leaving, consider keeping the one for the engine open in case the boat needs to be moved in an emergency, or ensure that the caretaker knows where the valve is located.

Mistake No. 2: Not monitoring the batteries

Since we weren’t leaving anything power-hungry on, Ken and I had thought that the solar panels would be sufficient to keep the batteries charged, so we didn’t connect to shore power. Had we been connected, the bilge pump would’ve continued pumping, and the flood would’ve been averted (although, admittedly, this wouldn’t have solved the reason for the flood in the first place).

Mistake No. 3: Not being specific with the marina staff

After the flood, we requested Mary T be towed to another marina that had a travel lift and be put on the hard until our return. At least then we wouldn’t need to worry about sinking. This all went well, and photos revealed that the boat was blocked as we requested. It hadn’t occurred to us to tell the new marina to stow the fenders and dock lines, which were thrown willy-nilly on the deck or remained hanging off the sides. Most of them were ruined, and the rubber from some of the fenders melted onto the deck and hull.

Mistake No. 4: Leaving food aboard

Leaving food aboard was another mistake we made. Canned goods, rice, pasta, spices and other items I considered to have a long shelf life were left in plastic containers or zipper bags. I didn’t really think it would be a problem—or if it was, I assumed the marina employees would remove it (see Mistake No. 3). Those were both incorrect assumptions.

Upon our return, two-and-a-half years later, we discovered a thriving community of cockroaches aboard. Their droppings and eggs were everywhere. Given more time, Ken said, they probably would’ve sailed the boat away. The eradication of the cucarachas required professional intervention. I watched the exterminator closely as he placed little piles of boric acid mixed with sugar in strategic places throughout the boat.

He explained that roaches like the dark and travel along the edges of spaces, so placing the deadly but tasty bait in the corners of cupboards, near hinges and along the ledges of storage spaces was the hot ticket. It worked like a charm. I continue to use this method when we see the occasional baby roach. It’s a nontoxic intervention, so you don’t need to vacate the boat or worry about touching it.

Once back in Guatemala, I cleaned every square inch of Mary T like a woman possessed, determined to eliminate every last bit of roach evidence. On a positive note, we’ve done a complete inventory, and the boat has never been so clean. You can now eat off the floor of our rope locker, and we’ve learned from our mistakes.

Thoughts for next time

If we ever leave our boat again for an extended period, we will be sure to close the seacocks and remove all food. Most important, we would go over the boat with a caretaker and create a detailed list of expectations with a schedule for cleaning, monitoring shore power and battery health, inspecting the bilge and bilge pump, and closely examining for insect infestations.

We’d request the engine be started twice a month. Our alternator belt had ­deteriorated onto the pulleys, and the engine’s raw-water impeller was deformed because no one ran the engine. If we left Mary T on the hard, we would flake out the anchor chain. The last 70 feet of our chain congealed into a rusty ball, and the bottom of the chain locker was loaded with rust flakes.

I would inquire monthly via email as to the overall health of the vessel. If any unforeseen events arose, requiring specific action, I would give as much detailed instructions as possible. I would not assume anything. That was our biggest mistake. It was foolish to think the marina would intuit what we wanted and do whatever was required.

When we first came back and the boat was on the hard—filthy and in shambles—I’d find myself standing in the middle of the saloon looking at the mess, feeling overwhelmed. The next moment, I’d shove my head in a galley cupboard or storage locker and vacuum up cucaracha poop while cursing to the heavens. After working myself into a snit, I’d take a deep breath, step back and remind myself that I am one of the luckiest people in the world; I am in a beautiful, exotic land enjoying the privilege of owning a boat.

Renting an apartment near the marina during the initial weeks back in Guatemala made our return much easier. Being able to take breaks away from the chaos and the toxic dust of the boatyard made the whole process more tolerable. Even after the boat was splashed, we stayed in the apartment until the messy jobs were finished.

Now that all the major work has been completed, much of it by skilled locals, we’re comfortably living aboard again. But without a cleaning project, I hardly know what to do with myself. Oh yeah, now I remember: Let’s go sailing! Where to next?

Amy Flannery and her husband, Ken Kurlychek, are living aboard their Morgan 38, Mary T, in the Western Caribbean.

The post Lessons Learned from Leaving the Boat appeared first on Cruising World.