{"id":48464,"date":"2022-04-27T11:54:18","date_gmt":"2022-04-27T15:54:18","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/?p=48464"},"modified":"2025-02-13T14:36:50","modified_gmt":"2025-02-13T19:36:50","slug":"spring-bright-work-preparation-is-key-when-working-with-varnish","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/how-to\/spring-bright-work-preparation-is-key-when-working-with-varnish\/","title":{"rendered":"Spring Bright Work: Preparation is Key When Working With Varnish"},"content":{"rendered":"\n        <section class=\"hydra-container\">\n\n\t\t\t                <div class=\"hydra-canvas\">\n\t\t\t\t\t                <\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\n            <figcaption class=\"caption margin_top_xs full border_1 hydra-figcaption\">\n                <span class=\"hydra-image-caption\"><\/span>\n                <span class=\"article_image_credit italic margin_right_xs\"><\/span>\n\n\t\t\t\t            <\/figcaption>\n        <\/section>\n\t\t\n\n\n        <section class=\"hydra-container\">\n\n\t\t\t                <div class=\"hydra-canvas\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/10024_0775-1024x768.jpg\" class=\"hydra-image disable-lazyload\" alt=\"sailboat\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\" fetchpriority=\"high\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/10024_0775-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/10024_0775-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/10024_0775-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/10024_0775.jpg 2000w\" \/>                <\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\n            <figcaption class=\"caption margin_top_xs full border_1 hydra-figcaption\">\n                <span class=\"hydra-image-caption\">Properly applied brightwork not only protects your wood from salt and sunlight, but also rewards the eyes of all who behold it.<\/span>\n                <span class=\"article_image_credit italic margin_right_xs\">Alison Langley<\/span>\n\n\t\t\t\t            <\/figcaption>\n        <\/section>\n\t\t\n\n\n<p>Summer 1997: I was a college kid with a summer gig at the Norwalk Yacht Club in Connecticut. One of my first jobs involved helping varnish the cap rail on the club\u2019s front deck. A friend warned me that this was the boss\u2019s litmus test. I kept my&nbsp;job, but I can still hear&nbsp;my boss warning our crew to mind&nbsp;our \u201cruns and holidays.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<iframe id=\"gkstfcayky\" src=\"https:\/\/cruisingworld.dragonforms.com\/gkstfcayky\" scrolling=\"no\" style=\"width:100%;height:165px;border:none;overflow:hidden;\"><\/iframe>\n\n\n\n<p>Flash-forward 25 years, and I\u2019ve learned that the chiseled foam brushes my boss favored weren\u2019t exactly standard (see sidebar). Even so, I can \u00adonly imagine that the Norwalk Yacht Club produced several generations of employees who are fairly deft at foamy-brush brightwork.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>While it\u2019s tough to pinpoint when mariners first started \u00ademploying varnish, likely to keep spars from absorbing water (read: weight aloft), odds are good that the practice originated in the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/tag\/mediterranean\/\">Mediterranean region<\/a> and was derived from resins from now-extinct trees. Varnish and varnish alternatives aren\u2019t new, but they can do a great job protecting wood from salt and sunlight while \u00adletting owners customize a yacht\u2019s \u00adaesthetics.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The trick, of course, is \u00adensuring proper attention to detail before and during \u00adapplication, and performing some annual maintenance.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>All varnishes are based on proprietary formulas that \u00adconsist of solvents, oils, resins, additives and drying agents; however, varnishes can be \u00adsorted into two basic camps. Traditional varnishes (\u201cspar\u201d or \u201cmarine\u201d varnishes) employ natural oils, usually from trees such as tong or linseed oil, and an alkyd or phenolic base, or sometimes a blend of the two. Polyurethane varnishes employ synthetic (polymer) oils and are either water- or oil-based. Alternatively, they can employ a base that\u2019s a blend of alkyds or phenolics and polyurethane.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Both varnish types have their applications and virtues.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Traditional varnishes are flexible in nature and never actually cure, but instead achieve a \u201csuspended elastic state,\u201d says Jason Spaulding, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.epifanes.com\/introduction\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Epifanes<\/a>\u2019 technical sales manager. This natural elasticity allows the \u00advarnish to bend and stretch with the wood as it moves from loading\u2014such as with spars\u2014or from seasonal swelling and shrinking. While these attributes make traditional varnishes great for working woods, they also mean that the finish isn\u2019t particularly hard or resilient to everyday dings, scrapes and scratches. Spar varnishes have a traditional amber look that many people love, however, wood purists sometimes grumble that it can disguise the wood\u2019s natural grain.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n        <section class=\"hydra-container\">\n\n\t\t\t                <div class=\"hydra-canvas\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/PXL_20201026_032905109-1024x768.jpg\" class=\"hydra-image\" alt=\"Taping off areas that are going to be varnished\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/PXL_20201026_032905109-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/PXL_20201026_032905109-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/PXL_20201026_032905109-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/PXL_20201026_032905109.jpg 2000w\" \/>                <\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\n            <figcaption class=\"caption margin_top_xs full border_1 hydra-figcaption\">\n                <span class=\"hydra-image-caption\">Preparation includes carefully taping off areas.<\/span>\n                <span class=\"article_image_credit italic margin_right_xs\">Northwest Maritime Center<\/span>\n\n\t\t\t\t            <\/figcaption>\n        <\/section>\n\t\t\n\n\n<p>\u201cIf people want a \u00adtraditional look, they should use [spar] \u00advarnish,\u201d Spaulding says. \u201cIf [they] want a more \u00admodern look, they should use a \u00adpolyurethane.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Polyurethane varnishes, which tend to have a clear \u00adfinish, typically yield a much harder and more scratch-\u00adresistant \u201ccandy-coated\u201d look. The trouble is that these eye-pleasing finishes have a tendency to crack when they are applied to wooden spars, spinnaker poles, and \u00adother pieces of brightwork that \u00adrequire some degree of give. &nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Polyurethane varnishes are available as one- or two-part systems. While both \u00adproduct types can work well, one-part systems tend to be more \u00aduser-friendly.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cOne-part systems remove the chemistry, which helps out a lot,\u201d says Joel Arrington, \u00adboat-shop manager at the Northwest Maritime Center in Port Townsend, Washington. \u201cOne-part varnishes are better for the DIYer.\u201d&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Others agree. \u201cRepairs are much easier with a one-part varnish,\u201d says Tom Maellaro, vice president of marketing at&nbsp;Modern Recreational Technologies, which owns <a href=\"https:\/\/pettitpaint.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Pettit Marine Paint<\/a>. \u201cTouch-ups are hard with two-part \u00advarnishes. But fixing damage to a single-\u00adcomponent product is very easy.\u201d Mariners just sand and reapply.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>While spar and \u00adpolyurethane varnishes are the \u00adstandard on many boats, some \u00adcruisers \u00adprefer varnish alternatives such as Cetol. These \u00adfinishes are \u00adoften easier to apply and \u00admaintain (read: no sanding \u00adbetween coats). Years ago, \u00adCetol-based products had a reputation for yielding cloudy, opaque-\u00adlooking finishes, but today\u2019s \u00adcruisers can select from different-\u00adlooking \u00adfinishes. \u00adCetol tends to yield a long-\u00adlasting finish that can be a good match for high-use areas such as handrails.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Irrespective of the \u00adproduct, it\u2019s important to think of \u00advarnish as a system, much like paint. This system begins with base coats, which are \u00addesigned to penetrate the wood while giving subsequent layers \u00adsomething to adhere to.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n        <section class=\"hydra-container\">\n\n\t\t\t                <div class=\"hydra-canvas\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/PXL_20210408_211047970-1024x768.jpg\" class=\"hydra-image\" alt=\"dusting before varnish\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/PXL_20210408_211047970-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/PXL_20210408_211047970-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/PXL_20210408_211047970-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/PXL_20210408_211047970.jpg 2000w\" \/>                <\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\n            <figcaption class=\"caption margin_top_xs full border_1 hydra-figcaption\">\n                <span class=\"hydra-image-caption\">Wiping away old dust, is key for any good brightwork job.<\/span>\n                <span class=\"article_image_credit italic margin_right_xs\">Northwest Maritime Center<\/span>\n\n\t\t\t\t            <\/figcaption>\n        <\/section>\n\t\t\n\n\n<p>\u201cA sealer coat is most \u00adimportant with teak,\u201d says Maellaro, suggesting DIYers look for a base product that \u201cdeeply penetrates the surface and creates a bonding layer for the varnish.\u201d Alternatively, some cruisers opt to use epoxy for the sealer\/base coat, and then switch to varnish for the topcoats.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ultraviolet protection is one of the main benefits of varnish, but not all varnishes are created equally when it comes to the sun. Some have a higher solids content; this isn\u2019t an assurance of sunlight protection.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cIt depends on their UV package,\u201d Maellaro says, adding that a varnish could have thick viscosity with a low UV \u00adbarrier, or it could have low viscosity and high UV protection. He advises DIYers to research UV properties and select a product that matches their local climate (that means more UV protection for a sailboat in Miami than in Seattle).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If properly applied and \u00admaintained, varnish will protect a yacht\u2019s wood for years. The trick, like so many things marine, is to ensure that all of the little steps are taken, in proper order, with patience \u00adelevated to the highest virtue status.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cConcentrate on cleanliness,\u201d Spaulding says of the pre-varnishing preparation process. \u201cAlways use lint-free rags\u2014<em>not<\/em> a paper towel or a T-shirt\u2014and denatured alcohol. Tack rags are extremely important.\u201d&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Arrington and \u00adMaellaro agree. \u201cIt\u2019s about trying to \u00admitigate debris and dust\u2014\u00adanything that can get blown into the work,\u201d Arrington says. \u201cSome folks will build a shelter because it\u2019s a more controlled working environment. Also, make sure you have everything you need <em>before<\/em> you start the project.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>DIYers can often apply \u00advarnish while their yacht is on the hard, depending on the yard\u2019s policies, but \u00adMaellaro says: \u201cThere\u2019s the old adage: It\u2019s&nbsp;better to varnish on the \u00adwater. There\u2019s no dust, just more bugs.\u201d&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Sometimes, the best \u00adsolution is to apply varnish off-site. \u00adArrington suggests that \u00adDIYers see if individual pieces of brightwork can be removed from the boat, varnished in a more controlled environment, and then reinstalled.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Keeping the area super clean should start with a vigorous outing with a Shop-Vac, and then switching to an air \u00adcompressor (or reversing the Shop-Vac) and blowing away any straggler bits.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cNinety percent of it is preparation; 10 percent of it is painting,\u201d Spaulding says. \u201cTo be a good painter, you need to&nbsp;be a good prepper.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If you are removing old \u00advarnish, Arrington suggests \u00adbeginning by peeling off the old varnish using a \u00adchemical \u00adstripper or a heat gun to get down to bare wood. If the old varnish allowed water to \u00adenter, he says, bleach the wood to \u00adremove staining, and then \u00adreinvigorate the substrate \u00adusing 120-grit sandpaper. \u201cIf the wood is too smooth, it will have a hard time accepting the base layers,\u201d he&nbsp;says.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Spaulding says that this is a good time to tape off \u00adareas of fiberglass that you want to \u00adprotect from the varnish, \u00adusing painter\u2019s tape and plastic \u00adsheeting.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Next, Maellaro says, strain the varnish to remove any \u00addebris. \u201cIf you just use the can,&nbsp;you will contaminate it,\u201d he says.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This process includes base layers. While DIYers can use a variety of sealer-coat products, Arrington recommends spar varnish that has been thinned by 50 percent with a thinner manufactured by the same company. \u201cIt\u2019s an absorbable coat that seals the grain,\u201d he says, \u201cand it becomes a building base for the next coats.\u201d&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>From here, he recommends sanding and then applying a second coat that\u2019s thinned by 25 percent, followed by a layer of full-thickness varnish. (Spaulding recommends a third base coat that\u2019s thinned by 15&nbsp;percent.) Always go with the wood\u2019s grain.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cOnce you\u2019re into the \u00advarnish, never go more aggressive than 220,\u201d Arrington says of sandpaper grit. \u201cYou can use a long board with a soft pad that\u2019s either 220 or 320 and work down the high spots.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Thinning also helps to ensure that the varnish dries evenly. A danger, Maellaro says, is the top film drying before the rest of its coat, causing \u201csolvent entrapment,\u201d which can result in alligator-type marks or sometimes pinholes in the finish. If this happens, the solution is to sand off the compromised layer, thin the varnish, and reapply.<\/p>\n\n\n\n        <section class=\"hydra-container\">\n\n\t\t\t                <div class=\"hydra-canvas\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/IMG_20200524_074553-1024x768.jpg\" class=\"hydra-image\" alt=\"Northwest Maritime Center\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/IMG_20200524_074553-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/IMG_20200524_074553-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/IMG_20200524_074553-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/IMG_20200524_074553.jpg 2000w\" \/>                <\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\n            <figcaption class=\"caption margin_top_xs full border_1 hydra-figcaption\">\n                <span class=\"hydra-image-caption\">The Northwest Maritime Center in Port Townsend, \nWashington, is no stranger to brightwork projects, including those that deal with masts, booms and spinnaker poles.<\/span>\n                <span class=\"article_image_credit italic margin_right_xs\">Northwest Maritime Center<\/span>\n\n\t\t\t\t            <\/figcaption>\n        <\/section>\n\t\t\n\n\n<p>\u201cAmbient heat is really the only way to go,\u201d Spaulding says about getting varnish to dry. \u201cIf you force it, you\u2019ll cause issues.\u201d He recommends applying varnish on days when ambient temperatures are 50 to 85&nbsp;\u00addegrees Fahrenheit.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Maellaro agrees, but adds that humidity is another important consideration. \u201cNever varnish if the weather is threatening or raining,\u201d he says. \u201cHigh humidity is also bad.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Likewise, Arrington warns that wind has ruined more than one final coat. &nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Once the right conditions present themselves, varnishing is a matter of patiently applying a thin coat (roughly 1 to 3 mm thick, with thinner coats being the ideal), waiting for it to dry, lightly sanding the surface with progressively finer sandpaper, and then applying the next coat. While sanding between coats is the norm, Maellaro says that\u2014product depending\u2014DIYers can sometimes skip the sandpaper if they apply coats within 24 to 36 hours of each other.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cEight coats is the \u00adminimum,\u201d Spaulding says. \u201cBut 10 to 12 coats is better.\u201d&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Which is a lot of prepping, sanding, painting and waiting. \u201cMy number-one tip for a perfect coat is patience,\u201d Arrington says. \u201cThis starts with setup, and it ends with attention to detail.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>That attention to detail includes selecting the last weather window. \u201cAlways apply the final coat in the morning, after the dew has evaporated\u201d Spaulding says. \u201cEvenings are dangerous. Temperatures drop. Dew is a big issue. If it settles, it can act like a wax that doesn\u2019t let the solids move to the surface.\u201d&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Once the final coat has been applied, owners can take steps to ensure that their brightwork stays sharp-looking.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cMaintenance, maintenance, maintenance,\u201d Spaulding says, adding that a single annual maintenance coat is likely sufficient for boats that reside under normal UV conditions, while two annual maintenance coats are the norm in Florida or the Caribbean. \u201cPutting down eight to 10 coats and then letting it go to hell a year or so later doesn\u2019t make sense to me,\u201d he adds. Customers can get 15 years out of a brightwork job, provided that they are \u00advigilant with maintenance.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Finally, owners should consider supporting their local canvas shop. \u201cCanvas does wonders with UV,\u201d Arrington says. \u201cIt looks expensive \u00adupfront, but it will save you a&nbsp;lot of time.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>While there are a lot of considerations when selecting a varnish or varnish alternative, not to mention hours of work required to get a sparkling finish, the aesthetic results are rewarding, and the protective results can pay dividends for years.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>One final caution: Buy only marine-grade products. Cheaper solutions abound at big-box stores, but they are not formulated to endure the marine environment\u2019s frequent salt-and-sunshine carpet bombings.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>David Schmidt is <\/em>CW<em>\u2019s electronics editor and occasionally writes on other gear topics.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"h-tools-of-the-trade\">Tools of the Trade<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>While I learned to \u00advarnish using a chiseled foam brush, experts \u00addiscourage this tool. \u201cFoam brushes introduce air bubbles \u00adinto the finish,\u201d Tom \u00adMaellaro says. \u201cAnd they get \u00adfloppy as the solvents eat the foam. If you\u2019re not \u00adpaying attention, a foam brush can unmold and expand\u2026and can apply uneven amounts of finish.\u201d He \u00adfavors badger-hair brushes, while Jason \u00adSpaulding suggests <a href=\"https:\/\/amzn.to\/3EFzrgM\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener nofollow\">Corona \u00adEuropa brushes<\/a>, which are badger-\u00adstyle brushes that fetch \u00adbetween $10 and $35.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Vendor List&nbsp;<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Ace: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.acehardware.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">acehardware.com<\/a>; from $10<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>AwlGrip: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.awlgrip.com\/region-selection?destination=homepage\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">awlgrip.com<\/a>; from $6<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Bonstone: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.bonstone.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">bonstone.com<\/a>; from $85<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Bristol Finish: <a href=\"https:\/\/bristolfinish.us\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">bristolfinish.us<\/a>; from $75<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Coelan: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.supplyground.com\/Default.asp\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">supplyground.com<\/a>; from $80<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Deft Defthane: <a href=\"https:\/\/ppgpaints.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">ppgpaints.com<\/a>; call for pricing<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Epifanes: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.epifanes.com\/introduction\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">epifanes.com<\/a>; from $25<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>HMG: <a href=\"https:\/\/hmgpaint.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">hmgpaint.com<\/a>; call for pricing<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Interlux: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.interlux.com\/en\/us\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">interlux.com<\/a>; from $25<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Minwax: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.minwax.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">minwax.com<\/a>; from $15<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Pettit: <a href=\"https:\/\/pettitpaint.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">pettitpaint.com<\/a>; from $30<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Vermont Natural Coatings: <a href=\"https:\/\/vermontnaturalcoatings.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">vermontnaturalcoatings.com<\/a>; from $10<\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>A look at varnish and varnish alternatives for modern cruising sailors.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":11,"featured_media":48471,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"BS_author_type":"BS_author_is_guest","BS_guest_author_name":"David Schmidt","BS_guest_author_url":"","hydra_display_date":"","hydra_display_updated":false,"arc_story_id":"","arc_website_url":"","arc_subtype":"","arc_exclude_from_feeds":false,"sponsored":false,"sponsored_label":"Sponsored Content","sponsored_display_label":false,"post_right_rail":true,"post_right_rail_ad_1":true,"post_right_rail_ad_2":true,"post_right_rail_ad_3":false,"post_right_rail_ad_4":false,"post_right_rail_recirc":true,"fixed_anchor_ad":true,"post_top_ad":true,"post_off_ramp":true,"post_taboola":false,"labels":false,"apple_news_api_created_at":"","apple_news_api_id":"","apple_news_api_modified_at":"","apple_news_api_revision":"","apple_news_api_share_url":"","apple_news_cover_media_provider":"image","apple_news_coverimage":0,"apple_news_coverimage_caption":"","apple_news_cover_video_id":0,"apple_news_cover_video_url":"","apple_news_cover_embedwebvideo_url":"","apple_news_is_hidden":"","apple_news_is_paid":"","apple_news_is_preview":"","apple_news_is_sponsored":"","apple_news_maturity_rating":"","apple_news_metadata":"\"\"","apple_news_pullquote":"","apple_news_pullquote_position":"","apple_news_slug":"","apple_news_sections":[],"apple_news_suppress_video_url":false,"apple_news_use_image_component":false,"footnotes":"","ad_settings_ads_on_this_page":true,"ad_settings_automatic_ad_injection_into_the_content":true,"ad_targeting":"","sponsored_image":false,"sponsored_url":"","social_share":true,"alternate_title_newsletter":"","alternate_content_newsletter":""},"categories":[164],"tags":[2044,183,319,1912,238],"class_list":["post-48464","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-how-to","tag-affiliate","tag-how-to","tag-maintenance","tag-print-2022-april","tag-projects"],"acf":[],"apple_news_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/48464","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/11"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=48464"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/48464\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/48471"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=48464"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=48464"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=48464"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}